We have had no Internet access while in Bandhavgarh, and so this blog entry will describe the whole of our 6 days and 11 safari drives. Apologies in advance for how long it is!
11 APRIL 2013.
After lunch, we got ourselves organised with cameras, lenses, tripod, bean bag and binoculars, and headed to our vehicle. A typical safari open vehicle, with two rows of seats. I eventually opted for the back row, but still could not use my tripod properly, but eventually after another drive, we had the middle seat removed so that I could set up my tripod and still have quick access to a second camera for closer range shots.
We arrived at the park, and having gone through the formalities, we started our first safari drive. We have travelled here in the hope of seeing tigers. We believe we have given ourselves the best opportunity. Bandhavgarh has the highest density of tigers in India, although still worryingly low. We have come when the weather is hot - high 30's plus, so that they are more likely to head to watering holes,and we are staying for 6 days. But we still accept that we may not see a tiger. If we do, we will be very happy. If, additionally, I can get a photo, that will be brilliant, but accept again that this may be a distant shot of a camouflaged, and hidden tiger. If I can get a good photo - well that will be beyond expectations.
As we head off we are amazed at the number of monkeys that we see. Individuals, small family groups and larger groups. Adults and juveniles, and tiny baby monkeys. We also see 3 of the types of deer that exist here - Samba deer, Spotted deer and barking deer (the type we know in England as Muntjac). The barking of the deer, and the chattering alarm calls of the monkeys are one of the clues that there may be a tiger in the area.
After a pleasant hour driving around, taking a few photos and starting to see some of the lovely birds, we are suddenly put on high alert. The deer and monkeys alert us that we may be close to a tiger. The driver, Shailin, who owns our lodge - Junglemantra, and the park guide who travels with us start to get excited, and all eyes are peeled. We reverse back a short distance and then Cherith informs all of us that just to the side and deeply hidden in the undergrowth, she has seen her first tiger.
And then one by one we all see it. A head and two ears hidden in the undergrowth, but nevertheless a wild tiger. Our first aim has miraculously been achieved within the first hour. I take a photo, although it is of a head shielded by grass, but it may be my only chance. But shortly after this the tiger walks out, stretches and lies down on the road, just 30 to 40yards in front of us. The light is lovely, the tiger is relaxed, and my camera goes into overdrive. After a while we drive past the female tiger, who casually gets up and strolls back into the undergrowth before re- emerging to lie down again. Unbelievably we spend 2 hours with her, and what a privilege. I am able to photograph her relaxing, walking down the track towards us, and then heading to water and drinking.
The first drive, and now we have also achieved aims 2 and,3, not only a record photo of a tiger, but also clear action shots of a tiger walking and drinking. We just have to hope it has not all been too easy, and that this is our first and last view and photos of a tiger. Only time will tell.
12 APRIL 2013.
Two further drives today, but not a sign of any tigers after the superb viewing we had yesterday. Not that we didn't all try. A 4 hour drive in the morning and 3 hours in the afternoon. Very different type of safari to what we are used to; neither better nor worse, just different.
For one thing all the lodges are situated outside the National Park, and so we needed to set off from the lodge at just after 5.30, in order to be ready to enter when it gets to 6am (opening time). Numbers of visitors each day are restricted. I am not sure if this is a good or bad idea, although there do appear to be quite a lot of vehicles whenever a tiger is seen. This appears to be more of a problem for those watching the tiger than for the tigers, who are very relaxed around the vehicles. However, there appears to be a view that tourism is having an adverse effect on the tiger population. This is unlikely to be correct, and evidence from other situations with threatened species suggests that properly regulated tourism helps to reduce poaching and encourage the re- emergence of once threatened species.
We have pre- booked tickets for our safaris, and when we arrive at the gate with Shailin he has to produce the tickets and we have to show our passports to be checked against the ticket details. We are then given a guide who travels with us and a pre- determined route to follow. This could be frustrating if a tiger appears somewhere nearby but not actually on our route, although unlike in South Africa, we probably wouldn't know if a tiger was near, as there is no way of communicating between guides. Also we have to be out of the park by 10am after the morning drive and 6pm after the evening drive, so have to make a rapid return journey if we have had good viewing and are late, at speed, over incredibly bumpy surfaces.
Although it could be frustrating, we just go along with the rules, and still have two good drives. Lots to see:- red- faced and black-faced monkeys with babies, deer, numerous birds including the beautiful Indian Roller and White-throated Kingfisher, a proudly displaying and grand male Indian Peacock and at the end of the drive a rare view of a Ruddy Mongoose, drinking at a patch of water.
Tomorrow is another day, and it may bring us tigers, but if not there will be lots to see and enjoy.
13 APRIL 2013
Now well settled into lodge routine, and another day to go and search for tigers.
The day begins with an early start, usually about 5am, and then a quick tea or coffee, before heading off in the jeep in order to be at the Park entrance for 6am. A 4 hour safari then follows, before returning to the lodge for breakfast. With food and chat finished, we head back to our room between 11am and 11.30am. We then have some time to download and start to sort photos, check bird list, write blog, recharge camera batteries, clean the rapidly accumulating dust from my cameras, read and rest or catch up on sleep. Lunch is then at about 2.15 before we repeat the morning routine, but this time leaving just after 3 for a 3.30 start at the park and a 3 hour safari. After returning at about 7pm, we head to our room for a shower, with a bottle of Kingfisher each and then eat about 8pm. The tastes and flavours of all the meals are first class. Bed then follows around 10 to 10.30; exhausted.
The drives themselves cover a long distance over tracks which are at times very bumpy and bone shaking. Each drive probably covers 35 miles. As well as being on the constant look out for wildlife, our ears are tuned in to the sound of the forest, listening for birds, alarm calls or any other clue as to what may be around us. A constant battle is with the dust, which obviously is not ideal for cameras and lenses. The shower caps, which I regularly take with me when leaving hotels, come in very useful for this purpose, covering camera body and lens, but at the same time being quickly removable. (I obviously have no other use for them, certainly not for their intended purpose.)
This morning we were actually up 30 minutes earlier, as we are heading for The Magdi Region of the Park, which is further away from Junglemantra. The drive this morning again failed to reveal any tigers, although there were paw imprints and alarm calls from monkeys and deer, so they are obviously in the region.
The drive this afternoon was very different and certainly not what we expected. As we set off, the beautiful hot weather from this morning started to change, and was replaced by heavy cloudy skies, and the threat of an imminent storm. We had not been on the way for long when the wind whipped up, leaves started to be blown around, a few spots of rain fell, and the rumblings of thunder could be heard in the distance. We were offered the option of a cover over the vehicle, but initially declined as it would restrict viewing. However, as the rain started to become torrential, we quickly changed our mind, and what a good job. Although only lasting for 10 minutes or so, the rain lashed down and we would have been soaked through. The shower caps now were protecting my main camera and lens from the rain, while my other camera went back in the camera bag. My tripod also found an additional use at this stage. The top of the cover over the vehicle was very low, and we were sitting in a crouched position. The tripod was extended and the roof was raised so that we could sit upright.
As the rain eased, the cover came off, but about 5pm the rain started again, the thunder increased and the lightening started to flash all around us. I guess it's not the safest option in the world to be travelling in a forest, holding onto a lightening conductor, in the form of a tripod, while a storm rages around. However, travelling at break neck speed over the rocky and bumpy surface, we eventually reached the exit of the park at 6pm, and as the rain had stopped again, we were pleased to have the cover removed, and enjoy much cooler fresh air.
Although we had some excellent sightings of the various monkeys, deer and birds and also our first view of a jackal during the day, there were sadly no further views of our main target, the tiger. On our way back to the lodge, and by now very dark, we did stop for a while as alarm calls were very clear just off the road, but nothing further happened.
We got back to Junglemantra and discovered that there had been a few spots of rain only during the course of the afternoon. Another day, 5 drives now complete and just the one tiger viewing, albeit an excellent one. Nearly halfway and we are wondering if we are going to be frustrated over the remaining 3 days, and 6 drives.
14 APRIL 2013
A lie in today, as we are heading to the Tala region, where we had our first 3 drives, and is closer, so did not need to get up until 5am!
The camera bag today is packed with waterproof covers and we also have our kagouls. The weather appears to be very pleasant, and the rain seems to have cooled it down a little, although this may not be as good as it sounds, as we want it hot to make the tiger viewing more likely. We headed to a new, for us, area of the forest, which was really beautiful. The Sal trees and in many cases parasitic vines, making for interesting shapes and patterns, with roots, vines and branches all intertwined. In addition there is the beautiful, vibrant colour of the Flame of the Forest Tree, and there is a backdrop of rugged hills. In addition dotted around are small ponds and watering holes. The viewing is again excellent, with a few new birds to enjoy.
The langur monkeys have been eating the Mahua fruit. As this is also picked by local people to make wine (they get 25 rupees for each kilo they pick!), it is not surprising that the monkeys are rushing around, jumping from tree to tree and play fighting. Monkeys are great fun to watch at the best of times, but drunk monkeys are even funnier. They have some of the most amazing expressions, and it is so easy to fall into the trap of humanising them and their behaviour.
As we are watching the monkeys and deer, their behaviour suddenly alters, and alarm calls go out. There is obviously a tiger in the area. And then from very nearby we hear the sound of tigers fighting. It is likely that there is a kill in the vicinity and there is a fight for the food. But then the forest settles back down again, the monkeys start to move around and the deer recommence their grazing in a relaxed style.
No sighting, but it is now hot, and hopefully any tiger(s) in the area will lie down in the shade, and rest, before starting to move around later as it starts to cool down. Hopefully also, we will be able to return to the same area this afternoon, although if not there are still potential sightings in other parts of Tala region.
On the way out of the park, there is the opportunity to photograph a male spotted deer, with his antlers, a Crested Serpent Eagle, and a White-throated Kingfisher.
We set off again at 3.30, more in hope than expectation. We were allocated the same route as this morning, and so immediately headed to the area where we had heard the tigers earlier in the day. We stayed for over an hour, photographing the deer and vultures which were circling around and landing in the area where we had assumed earlier that there was a kill. But no sign of a tiger, and there is a limit to how many deer photographs it is worth taking. Starting to feel pessimistic, and thinking that perhaps our luck ran out after the first drive.
We had to start the journey back to complete our route, and be out by 6.30. After a while we speeded up and as we rounded a bend there were about 5 vehicles lined up and looking onto the grassland in front. It was obvious that they were not just watching the 5 Indian peacocks in front of where they were, as these are seen throughout the park. It was thought that a tiger was probably lying in dense undergrowth approximately 100 metres ahead.
But did we see one? Unfortunately no. Bur fortunately we did see two! After a short wait a tiger emerged, walked a short way forward, and then lay down again. From the aspect of photography it was quite a long way off and the light was starting to fall.
It would appear that he had lain down in some water, as through the binoculars or the camera lens, or in the case of the guide, the naked eye, it was possible to see water being sprayed as he flicked his tail. And so we felt it was unlikely he would find a need to get up and find something to drink. Bit within a few minutes, a second tiger cub (they were about 16 months) appeared from the opposite direction, and after a brief frolick, they went and lay down again.
But the show was not over, for again after only a few minutes, one of the tigers reemerged and ran across to an area of water. Sadly the light was too low for a good shutter speed, and so I doubt if I will have any real action shots.
Also, sadly, we had to leave them, because the park has strict rules, and if we were not out in time, there was the potential for fines or a banning for the lodge. It seems ridiculous that when people have travelled a long way in order to see tigers, that such strict and inflexible rules apply. But nothing that could be done.
And so we headed back to the lodge, tired and almost wet as the weather was changing, but very happy. And just one hour before I had decided that our luck was out and our trip was going to be confined to one tiger and one sighting.
Who knows what else is in store.
PS Was downloading photos while writing the above, and was pleasantly surprised that despite the conditions, and the need to push my camera to its limits, that I have got some reasonable tiger photos.
15 APRIL 2013
After the usual start to the day, we set off into the Park, and soon picked up alarm calls. We could see a large herd of spotted deer, which had obviously been unsettled, and there were reports that this was due to a female tiger, although we did not see it ourselves.
Sat near the water, and while waiting, saw a peacock displaying, 3 different types of storks giving nice reflection shots, and a Stork-billed Kingfisher (aptly named) fishing.
Continued on our way and deviated to Center Park ( not Centre Parcs), where you would certainly not want to linger. It as, as the name implies, approximately in the middle of the Park, and is the only place where it is allowed to get out of the vehicle. There are "toilets" available, with a most unpleasant odour, and Cherith would rather have found a tree, but that is not permitted.
We were considering having a coffee and biscuit, when we heard that a tiger had been sighted. We abandoned the coffee break to pursue our top priority, and headed towards the area. It took about 15 minutes, and when we arrived, there were already 4 other vehicles there. Three tigers were in the long grass in the distance, two of which we did not see as they were heading to shade as we got there. The other stayed out in the open, giving us a good view as it relaxed, yawned and groomed its leg. It then also decided it was too hot, and sauntered into the bush. Four minutes from start to finish, but an excellent sighting, and a good job we hadn't stopped for coffee. Unfortunately the sun was high in the sky and harsh for photographs (is a photographer ever happy with the light) but no complaints.
The refreshment stop came shortly after but as the Dictator, (oops - I mean Director), was in the Park this had to be discrete. We then slowly sauntered back to the exit, stoping to watch Langur monkeys feeding in a stretch of water, and seeing a few new birds.
Time for breakfast, rest and sleep before lunch at 2.15, and with a spot of luck, a return to the same area, and possibly three consecutive drives when we see tigers.
Three out of three! Yes, another sighting, and this time everything came together for an excellent view and excellent photo opportunities. We headed back, in a temperature of 43C to the same area where the tigers had been seen this morning. It is obvious that if the tiger has decided to lie down because it is so hot, that it is going to stay in the shade until it cools down.
It took us about an hour of driving before we got there, and there were already 4 vehicles in situ. They were on the same route, but we had to travel the opposite direction. Crazy, but not only is everyone given a route, but also told which way to go round it, so that if you want to head to a potential tiger site just 2 miles from the start of the route, but you are scheduled to go the other way, you may have to drive 20 or more miles before reaching your intended destination. Not good for viewing, pollution, road damage etc. The advantage for us, however, was that later in the afternoon, when it was cooler and the tigers were likely to come out, the vehicles travelling in the opposite direction would have to leave to complete their route on time.
Two tigers had been seen in the undergrowth. Shortly after arriving there was an alarm call a little way back. We headed back to a small watering hole, but no joy. By the time we had returned other vehicles had arrived and I felt that our vantage point was not going to be ideal for photographs. In the distance, and very well camouflaged in the undergrowth we could see a tiger tail flicking and the head of a second tiger. We had to wait for quite a while and then one of the tiger cubs (but at 16 - 18 months, still a big cat), got to its feet and started to move. Alarm calls rang around the forest and monkeys grabbed their babies, and along with the deer started to run. There was a loud commotion, and in the distance, perhaps 150 yards away, Cherith saw a tiger make a massive leap at a tree, and I was able to see the branches swaying. The guide felt that the tiger had grabbed a monkey out of the tree.
The tiger disappeared and then reappeared a short distance away. Managed to take some photos, which were in good light, but distant. The Park Director then pulled up next to our vehicle, and the guide made our driver move back a few feet so that he could get his photos. We were all very pleased as this happened that the tiger moved behind a bush, and so we did not miss anything, and the Dictator did not get any photographs.
After a further short wait the tiger headed to the spot where we had seen it yesterday afternoon and lay down in water to cool off, before again getting up and walking for a few strides, allowing some good photo chances. We were one of the last vehicles to move away, and as we neared the water hole we had checked earlier we found a tiger drinking, although unfortunately with its back to us. Two other vehicles, one of which contained the Director's party returned, but by the time they got back the tiger had stopped drinking, walked directly in front of us, looked us straight in the eye and then continued walking into a less clear position. The Director told us to move, as there is again a foolish rule that you are only suppose to view if you are parked on the same side of the road as where the viewing is located. Although we were annoyed at the time, we realised that actually we had just had the best viewing in good light, and that we had missed nothing by moving on.
Back to Junglemantra for a lovely meal, a beer and then time to get some sleep before our final day here.
16 APRIL 2013
Our final day, and this morning we have made it 4 viewings in 4 drives. On a different route today, but as we drove and after about 1 hour, a male tiger paw marks were found. A number of vehicles arrived, including our friend the Director!
We got some good views of the main male tiger, who rules the forest, and when we saw him it was obvious why he was number one. A big majestic cat. The sighting was not altogether comfortable, however. The Dictator was using two elephants to locate the tiger, and then try to move him into a viewing position for him and his cronies. Not a significant problem if done sensitively, but we all felt that it was continued for too long and was starting to cause this beautiful example of a threatened species unnecessary distress; and from someone who should have known better.
What was worse it was purely for his pleasure, as he instructed our driver and some others not to turn their vehicles round and follow the tiger, and this could only have been to,make sure his view was not limited. However, once again, we did well out of his behaviour because the tiger actually turned round, walked through the undergrowth in front of us, made eye contact for a few more photos, and then crossed the track in font of us, and was so close that all I could get in my viewfinder was his head and a small part of his shoulder.
A gentle return with a satisfied smile on our faces, breakfast, photo processing, camera cleaning, updating blog and in another 10 minutes it will be time for lunch, our last drive, and with a bit of luck 5 viewings in 5 consecutive drives. But if it is not to be we will not complain as we have had some excellent sightings of a lovely cat.
As we set off for our final drive, it is 37.6C in the shade and 46.8 in the sun. But who cares about heat when there are tigers to see and photograph. And yes, that is exactly what happened. Everything fell into place for a perfect finale. After a drive, during which we found tiger paw marks, but did not find a tiger, we reached the previous area for our main sightings. There were a few other vehicles already present, and after a short while Cherith again picked up the unmistakeable signs of a flicking tail and then a head.
An alarm call sent us back up the road to a water hole, but with no joy. While waiting at the original site we again heard a call, and headed back up the road. The female tiger cub was lying on the track, being observed by 4 or 5 vehicles. We managed to find a vantage point, and in beautiful light had just 30 seconds or so before she got up, stretched and casually walked down the road, and right in front of our vehicles. (And some people think tigers and other big cats are stressed by safari drives and game viewing.)
The vehicles followed from the track, and again we managed to find a good viewpoint for our final sight of a tiger. Some distance away, but in beautiful light, strolling through the jungle, before lying down again to rest, and our final view of a tiger in the wild.
We returned to Junglemantra, satisfied that we had more than achieved what we had come here for. And the final viewing was superb - excellent light, no technical problems, really close views, and some more distant views of the tiger in its environment, a very relaxed cat, and even better no sign of the Dictator.
Part 2 of our stay in India is drawing to a close, and tomorrow we return to Delhi for the night before heading to the North-East of the country for what will be a totally different experience.
The first drive, and now we have also achieved aims 2 and,3, not only a record photo of a tiger, but also clear action shots of a tiger walking and drinking. We just have to hope it has not all been too easy, and that this is our first and last view and photos of a tiger. Only time will tell.
12 APRIL 2013.
Two further drives today, but not a sign of any tigers after the superb viewing we had yesterday. Not that we didn't all try. A 4 hour drive in the morning and 3 hours in the afternoon. Very different type of safari to what we are used to; neither better nor worse, just different.
For one thing all the lodges are situated outside the National Park, and so we needed to set off from the lodge at just after 5.30, in order to be ready to enter when it gets to 6am (opening time). Numbers of visitors each day are restricted. I am not sure if this is a good or bad idea, although there do appear to be quite a lot of vehicles whenever a tiger is seen. This appears to be more of a problem for those watching the tiger than for the tigers, who are very relaxed around the vehicles. However, there appears to be a view that tourism is having an adverse effect on the tiger population. This is unlikely to be correct, and evidence from other situations with threatened species suggests that properly regulated tourism helps to reduce poaching and encourage the re- emergence of once threatened species.
We have pre- booked tickets for our safaris, and when we arrive at the gate with Shailin he has to produce the tickets and we have to show our passports to be checked against the ticket details. We are then given a guide who travels with us and a pre- determined route to follow. This could be frustrating if a tiger appears somewhere nearby but not actually on our route, although unlike in South Africa, we probably wouldn't know if a tiger was near, as there is no way of communicating between guides. Also we have to be out of the park by 10am after the morning drive and 6pm after the evening drive, so have to make a rapid return journey if we have had good viewing and are late, at speed, over incredibly bumpy surfaces.
Although it could be frustrating, we just go along with the rules, and still have two good drives. Lots to see:- red- faced and black-faced monkeys with babies, deer, numerous birds including the beautiful Indian Roller and White-throated Kingfisher, a proudly displaying and grand male Indian Peacock and at the end of the drive a rare view of a Ruddy Mongoose, drinking at a patch of water.
Tomorrow is another day, and it may bring us tigers, but if not there will be lots to see and enjoy.
13 APRIL 2013
Now well settled into lodge routine, and another day to go and search for tigers.
The day begins with an early start, usually about 5am, and then a quick tea or coffee, before heading off in the jeep in order to be at the Park entrance for 6am. A 4 hour safari then follows, before returning to the lodge for breakfast. With food and chat finished, we head back to our room between 11am and 11.30am. We then have some time to download and start to sort photos, check bird list, write blog, recharge camera batteries, clean the rapidly accumulating dust from my cameras, read and rest or catch up on sleep. Lunch is then at about 2.15 before we repeat the morning routine, but this time leaving just after 3 for a 3.30 start at the park and a 3 hour safari. After returning at about 7pm, we head to our room for a shower, with a bottle of Kingfisher each and then eat about 8pm. The tastes and flavours of all the meals are first class. Bed then follows around 10 to 10.30; exhausted.
The drives themselves cover a long distance over tracks which are at times very bumpy and bone shaking. Each drive probably covers 35 miles. As well as being on the constant look out for wildlife, our ears are tuned in to the sound of the forest, listening for birds, alarm calls or any other clue as to what may be around us. A constant battle is with the dust, which obviously is not ideal for cameras and lenses. The shower caps, which I regularly take with me when leaving hotels, come in very useful for this purpose, covering camera body and lens, but at the same time being quickly removable. (I obviously have no other use for them, certainly not for their intended purpose.)
This morning we were actually up 30 minutes earlier, as we are heading for The Magdi Region of the Park, which is further away from Junglemantra. The drive this morning again failed to reveal any tigers, although there were paw imprints and alarm calls from monkeys and deer, so they are obviously in the region.
The drive this afternoon was very different and certainly not what we expected. As we set off, the beautiful hot weather from this morning started to change, and was replaced by heavy cloudy skies, and the threat of an imminent storm. We had not been on the way for long when the wind whipped up, leaves started to be blown around, a few spots of rain fell, and the rumblings of thunder could be heard in the distance. We were offered the option of a cover over the vehicle, but initially declined as it would restrict viewing. However, as the rain started to become torrential, we quickly changed our mind, and what a good job. Although only lasting for 10 minutes or so, the rain lashed down and we would have been soaked through. The shower caps now were protecting my main camera and lens from the rain, while my other camera went back in the camera bag. My tripod also found an additional use at this stage. The top of the cover over the vehicle was very low, and we were sitting in a crouched position. The tripod was extended and the roof was raised so that we could sit upright.
As the rain eased, the cover came off, but about 5pm the rain started again, the thunder increased and the lightening started to flash all around us. I guess it's not the safest option in the world to be travelling in a forest, holding onto a lightening conductor, in the form of a tripod, while a storm rages around. However, travelling at break neck speed over the rocky and bumpy surface, we eventually reached the exit of the park at 6pm, and as the rain had stopped again, we were pleased to have the cover removed, and enjoy much cooler fresh air.
Although we had some excellent sightings of the various monkeys, deer and birds and also our first view of a jackal during the day, there were sadly no further views of our main target, the tiger. On our way back to the lodge, and by now very dark, we did stop for a while as alarm calls were very clear just off the road, but nothing further happened.
We got back to Junglemantra and discovered that there had been a few spots of rain only during the course of the afternoon. Another day, 5 drives now complete and just the one tiger viewing, albeit an excellent one. Nearly halfway and we are wondering if we are going to be frustrated over the remaining 3 days, and 6 drives.
14 APRIL 2013
A lie in today, as we are heading to the Tala region, where we had our first 3 drives, and is closer, so did not need to get up until 5am!
The camera bag today is packed with waterproof covers and we also have our kagouls. The weather appears to be very pleasant, and the rain seems to have cooled it down a little, although this may not be as good as it sounds, as we want it hot to make the tiger viewing more likely. We headed to a new, for us, area of the forest, which was really beautiful. The Sal trees and in many cases parasitic vines, making for interesting shapes and patterns, with roots, vines and branches all intertwined. In addition there is the beautiful, vibrant colour of the Flame of the Forest Tree, and there is a backdrop of rugged hills. In addition dotted around are small ponds and watering holes. The viewing is again excellent, with a few new birds to enjoy.
The langur monkeys have been eating the Mahua fruit. As this is also picked by local people to make wine (they get 25 rupees for each kilo they pick!), it is not surprising that the monkeys are rushing around, jumping from tree to tree and play fighting. Monkeys are great fun to watch at the best of times, but drunk monkeys are even funnier. They have some of the most amazing expressions, and it is so easy to fall into the trap of humanising them and their behaviour.
As we are watching the monkeys and deer, their behaviour suddenly alters, and alarm calls go out. There is obviously a tiger in the area. And then from very nearby we hear the sound of tigers fighting. It is likely that there is a kill in the vicinity and there is a fight for the food. But then the forest settles back down again, the monkeys start to move around and the deer recommence their grazing in a relaxed style.
No sighting, but it is now hot, and hopefully any tiger(s) in the area will lie down in the shade, and rest, before starting to move around later as it starts to cool down. Hopefully also, we will be able to return to the same area this afternoon, although if not there are still potential sightings in other parts of Tala region.
On the way out of the park, there is the opportunity to photograph a male spotted deer, with his antlers, a Crested Serpent Eagle, and a White-throated Kingfisher.
We set off again at 3.30, more in hope than expectation. We were allocated the same route as this morning, and so immediately headed to the area where we had heard the tigers earlier in the day. We stayed for over an hour, photographing the deer and vultures which were circling around and landing in the area where we had assumed earlier that there was a kill. But no sign of a tiger, and there is a limit to how many deer photographs it is worth taking. Starting to feel pessimistic, and thinking that perhaps our luck ran out after the first drive.
We had to start the journey back to complete our route, and be out by 6.30. After a while we speeded up and as we rounded a bend there were about 5 vehicles lined up and looking onto the grassland in front. It was obvious that they were not just watching the 5 Indian peacocks in front of where they were, as these are seen throughout the park. It was thought that a tiger was probably lying in dense undergrowth approximately 100 metres ahead.
But did we see one? Unfortunately no. Bur fortunately we did see two! After a short wait a tiger emerged, walked a short way forward, and then lay down again. From the aspect of photography it was quite a long way off and the light was starting to fall.
It would appear that he had lain down in some water, as through the binoculars or the camera lens, or in the case of the guide, the naked eye, it was possible to see water being sprayed as he flicked his tail. And so we felt it was unlikely he would find a need to get up and find something to drink. Bit within a few minutes, a second tiger cub (they were about 16 months) appeared from the opposite direction, and after a brief frolick, they went and lay down again.
But the show was not over, for again after only a few minutes, one of the tigers reemerged and ran across to an area of water. Sadly the light was too low for a good shutter speed, and so I doubt if I will have any real action shots.
Also, sadly, we had to leave them, because the park has strict rules, and if we were not out in time, there was the potential for fines or a banning for the lodge. It seems ridiculous that when people have travelled a long way in order to see tigers, that such strict and inflexible rules apply. But nothing that could be done.
And so we headed back to the lodge, tired and almost wet as the weather was changing, but very happy. And just one hour before I had decided that our luck was out and our trip was going to be confined to one tiger and one sighting.
Who knows what else is in store.
PS Was downloading photos while writing the above, and was pleasantly surprised that despite the conditions, and the need to push my camera to its limits, that I have got some reasonable tiger photos.
15 APRIL 2013
After the usual start to the day, we set off into the Park, and soon picked up alarm calls. We could see a large herd of spotted deer, which had obviously been unsettled, and there were reports that this was due to a female tiger, although we did not see it ourselves.
Sat near the water, and while waiting, saw a peacock displaying, 3 different types of storks giving nice reflection shots, and a Stork-billed Kingfisher (aptly named) fishing.
Continued on our way and deviated to Center Park ( not Centre Parcs), where you would certainly not want to linger. It as, as the name implies, approximately in the middle of the Park, and is the only place where it is allowed to get out of the vehicle. There are "toilets" available, with a most unpleasant odour, and Cherith would rather have found a tree, but that is not permitted.
We were considering having a coffee and biscuit, when we heard that a tiger had been sighted. We abandoned the coffee break to pursue our top priority, and headed towards the area. It took about 15 minutes, and when we arrived, there were already 4 other vehicles there. Three tigers were in the long grass in the distance, two of which we did not see as they were heading to shade as we got there. The other stayed out in the open, giving us a good view as it relaxed, yawned and groomed its leg. It then also decided it was too hot, and sauntered into the bush. Four minutes from start to finish, but an excellent sighting, and a good job we hadn't stopped for coffee. Unfortunately the sun was high in the sky and harsh for photographs (is a photographer ever happy with the light) but no complaints.
The refreshment stop came shortly after but as the Dictator, (oops - I mean Director), was in the Park this had to be discrete. We then slowly sauntered back to the exit, stoping to watch Langur monkeys feeding in a stretch of water, and seeing a few new birds.
Time for breakfast, rest and sleep before lunch at 2.15, and with a spot of luck, a return to the same area, and possibly three consecutive drives when we see tigers.
Three out of three! Yes, another sighting, and this time everything came together for an excellent view and excellent photo opportunities. We headed back, in a temperature of 43C to the same area where the tigers had been seen this morning. It is obvious that if the tiger has decided to lie down because it is so hot, that it is going to stay in the shade until it cools down.
It took us about an hour of driving before we got there, and there were already 4 vehicles in situ. They were on the same route, but we had to travel the opposite direction. Crazy, but not only is everyone given a route, but also told which way to go round it, so that if you want to head to a potential tiger site just 2 miles from the start of the route, but you are scheduled to go the other way, you may have to drive 20 or more miles before reaching your intended destination. Not good for viewing, pollution, road damage etc. The advantage for us, however, was that later in the afternoon, when it was cooler and the tigers were likely to come out, the vehicles travelling in the opposite direction would have to leave to complete their route on time.
Two tigers had been seen in the undergrowth. Shortly after arriving there was an alarm call a little way back. We headed back to a small watering hole, but no joy. By the time we had returned other vehicles had arrived and I felt that our vantage point was not going to be ideal for photographs. In the distance, and very well camouflaged in the undergrowth we could see a tiger tail flicking and the head of a second tiger. We had to wait for quite a while and then one of the tiger cubs (but at 16 - 18 months, still a big cat), got to its feet and started to move. Alarm calls rang around the forest and monkeys grabbed their babies, and along with the deer started to run. There was a loud commotion, and in the distance, perhaps 150 yards away, Cherith saw a tiger make a massive leap at a tree, and I was able to see the branches swaying. The guide felt that the tiger had grabbed a monkey out of the tree.
The tiger disappeared and then reappeared a short distance away. Managed to take some photos, which were in good light, but distant. The Park Director then pulled up next to our vehicle, and the guide made our driver move back a few feet so that he could get his photos. We were all very pleased as this happened that the tiger moved behind a bush, and so we did not miss anything, and the Dictator did not get any photographs.
After a further short wait the tiger headed to the spot where we had seen it yesterday afternoon and lay down in water to cool off, before again getting up and walking for a few strides, allowing some good photo chances. We were one of the last vehicles to move away, and as we neared the water hole we had checked earlier we found a tiger drinking, although unfortunately with its back to us. Two other vehicles, one of which contained the Director's party returned, but by the time they got back the tiger had stopped drinking, walked directly in front of us, looked us straight in the eye and then continued walking into a less clear position. The Director told us to move, as there is again a foolish rule that you are only suppose to view if you are parked on the same side of the road as where the viewing is located. Although we were annoyed at the time, we realised that actually we had just had the best viewing in good light, and that we had missed nothing by moving on.
Back to Junglemantra for a lovely meal, a beer and then time to get some sleep before our final day here.
16 APRIL 2013
Our final day, and this morning we have made it 4 viewings in 4 drives. On a different route today, but as we drove and after about 1 hour, a male tiger paw marks were found. A number of vehicles arrived, including our friend the Director!
We got some good views of the main male tiger, who rules the forest, and when we saw him it was obvious why he was number one. A big majestic cat. The sighting was not altogether comfortable, however. The Dictator was using two elephants to locate the tiger, and then try to move him into a viewing position for him and his cronies. Not a significant problem if done sensitively, but we all felt that it was continued for too long and was starting to cause this beautiful example of a threatened species unnecessary distress; and from someone who should have known better.
What was worse it was purely for his pleasure, as he instructed our driver and some others not to turn their vehicles round and follow the tiger, and this could only have been to,make sure his view was not limited. However, once again, we did well out of his behaviour because the tiger actually turned round, walked through the undergrowth in front of us, made eye contact for a few more photos, and then crossed the track in font of us, and was so close that all I could get in my viewfinder was his head and a small part of his shoulder.
A gentle return with a satisfied smile on our faces, breakfast, photo processing, camera cleaning, updating blog and in another 10 minutes it will be time for lunch, our last drive, and with a bit of luck 5 viewings in 5 consecutive drives. But if it is not to be we will not complain as we have had some excellent sightings of a lovely cat.
As we set off for our final drive, it is 37.6C in the shade and 46.8 in the sun. But who cares about heat when there are tigers to see and photograph. And yes, that is exactly what happened. Everything fell into place for a perfect finale. After a drive, during which we found tiger paw marks, but did not find a tiger, we reached the previous area for our main sightings. There were a few other vehicles already present, and after a short while Cherith again picked up the unmistakeable signs of a flicking tail and then a head.
An alarm call sent us back up the road to a water hole, but with no joy. While waiting at the original site we again heard a call, and headed back up the road. The female tiger cub was lying on the track, being observed by 4 or 5 vehicles. We managed to find a vantage point, and in beautiful light had just 30 seconds or so before she got up, stretched and casually walked down the road, and right in front of our vehicles. (And some people think tigers and other big cats are stressed by safari drives and game viewing.)
The vehicles followed from the track, and again we managed to find a good viewpoint for our final sight of a tiger. Some distance away, but in beautiful light, strolling through the jungle, before lying down again to rest, and our final view of a tiger in the wild.
We returned to Junglemantra, satisfied that we had more than achieved what we had come here for. And the final viewing was superb - excellent light, no technical problems, really close views, and some more distant views of the tiger in its environment, a very relaxed cat, and even better no sign of the Dictator.
Part 2 of our stay in India is drawing to a close, and tomorrow we return to Delhi for the night before heading to the North-East of the country for what will be a totally different experience.
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