Monday, 29 April 2013

India - a land of contrasts - fascinating but frustrating; irresistible but irritating


We have now come to the end of 25 days in India, and it is so difficult to summarise the whole amazing experience that is India. India is at the same time fascinating and frustrating, irresistible and irritating. It is said that no matter what you say about India, it is possible to say the exact opposite, and for both statements to be true. There are a whole series of dichotomies and contradictions, which it is difficult to get our heads around. 1. It is a massive country but everywhere we have travelled there have been people, people and then more people. Whether it be the major cities of Delhi and Calcutta, the towns of Gangtok, Kalimpong and Darjeeling, or the little villages that we have passed through like Teesta, there are seething masses of humanity. Perhaps this is not surprising as the population is already over 1 billion, and is said to be increasing by a massive 1 million people each month. 2. It is a beautiful country, with fantastic scenery and a stunning heritage. But in so many places, it appears that it is not loved, cared for or cherished, and litter is discarded everywhere with no apparent concern for the visual impact. 3. It is a very religious country, and it appears that whether a person is a Hindu, a Buddhist or follows one of the more minor religions, their personal religion is a way of life for the vast majority. But at the same time from what we have observed and been told, the country survives on corruption and bribery. 4. It is a very poor country, although there is also huge wealth for a minority, but we have seen, that at least superficially, the majority of the population appear to be happy. They can teach us a lesson, that you can be happy, and indeed happier, when material objects and personal ambitions are of little significance. 5. The average wage is 120 rupees per day, or about £1.50! Despite that we saw satellite dishes on some of the poorest looking properties in the most remote locations, and everywhere we went we saw people on mobile phones, and watches were common. 6. Many areas are dirty and muddy, not just where litter has been abandoned, but in tidier villages and towns, and caused by the pot-holed and at times non-existent roads, bordering directly onto houses and shops. But at the same time the majority of people are well turned out and their clothes, even when white, are and remain incredibly clean. It was impressive to see children on their way to and from school, immaculately turned out with shirts and ties, creased trousers and skirts, and the girls with plaited hair and ribbons. I really have no idea how they can manage this, particularly considering the size of some of their houses. Above all India is a sensory experience and we are ready to return home to recover from sensory overload. The natural smells of flowers and trees, as well as the smells in the markets and at the table of spices are a constant assault on the sense of smell. Visual stimulation is provided by the natural colours of the lovely birds and butterflies, the bright saris of the ladies, the painted houses, the almost psychedelic colours in the monasteries, and once again the spices, fruit and vegetables in the market. Taste has been more than catered for in the interesting and varied meals that we have eaten, with our favourites being the restaurants in our hotels in Delhi and Agra. Touch has perhaps been the least stimulated sensation, but provided by the different feels of wool and silk used in dresses and other clothes as well as in the beautifully woven carpets. And finally there is noise, noise and more noise. Some of it the enjoyable sounds of morning bird song, but others due to rowdy football training, barking dogs, singing and shouting in the street, surprisingly loud chattering in monuments such as the Taj Mahal, but above all the incessant sound of the horns of cars, bikes, lorries, rickshaws and anything else on two or four wheels. Time to say goodbye to India, sign off from this blog and return to the "normality" of home, but probably in a few days we will be experiencing withdrawal symptoms from the India that we have experienced and which has given us memories that we will never forget.

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