22 APRIL 2013
It was time to leave Kalimpong and Orchid Retreat this morning. We had been on a bed and breakfast basis, but because we were a little way out of Kalimpong, we had opted to have our lunches and dinner there. Our lunches were sandwiches with tea and coffee, but for dinner we had soup, followed by chicken with rice, rotis, two different vegetables and then tea and coffee. Dinner over the two nights was washed down with 4 bottles of Kingfisher. The total bill, including service charge, was 2600 Rupees, or about £33!
As we left Kalimpong behind it was raining, and continued to rain on and off through the journey, although we still had some great views as we dropped down to the Teesta River, flowing from the Himalayas, through most of Sikkim and on to the Bay of Bengal. We then started our ascent through Teesta village towards Darjeeling. The whole area is very picturesque, with large swathes of forest and mountain scenery. This obviously results in some incredibly tortuous roads, with double hairpin bends, accompanied by the normal potholes and roads which are in places not a lot wider than a single car.
As we approached Darjeeling, we started to see the numerous and vast tea plantations, reminding me of the vineyards of France and South Africa. We were able to stop at one point and take photos of a group of ladies picking tea. They are currently picking the "first flush", the small light green leaves which are used to make white and green tea. It looked like back breaking and slow work, but perhaps like ladies anywhere they still found time to talk incessantly as they went about their tasks.
TEA PICKER
We dropped into the town of Darjeeling, which was much like all of the others we have visited, being noisy, crowded and in most places rather shabby and muddy. As we approached our hotel, the weather became even worse and we needed umbrellas as we got out and to get to our room. With the beautiful vegetation and mountain scenery, the cool climate and the rain, it is easy to see why The East India Company decided to use Darjeeling as a base to escape the intense heat of Kolkota, and to move with the instruments of government en masse to Darjeeling. It is built on a crescent shaped ridge, surrounded by hills which are thickly covered with coniferous forests and terraced tea gardens.
As we arrived at Windamere Hotel we were greeted by Elizabeth Clarke, the Executive Director. In conversation she asked where we were from, and for the second time we met someone in India who knew of Poulton-le-Fylde. Her sister lives in Wesham, just 6 or 7 miles away, and she herself originates from Stalybridge.
The "Windamere" is not a misspelling. In 1939, when it first became a hotel, one of the partners came from Windermere, where there is already a Windermere Hotel. The previous boarding house was re-"named The Windamere Hotel. It is in fact the oldest Colonial Hotel in India, and although it has been restored, it still retains all of its original features. It is like stepping back in time, with lovely wooden floors and old furniture in all of the rooms, and open fireplaces throughout the property, including in our bedroom. It is very easy to imagine what it was like when it was used as a boarding house for the newly arrived tea planters from England, and we would not be surprised to see everyone turn up for a dinner dance or a tea party, dressed in formal attire.
We had a leisurely 5 course lunch, and as it was still raining, Cherith had a manicure and pedicure, and I read, sorted photos and updated my blog. At 4.30 we then went to the sitting room for afternoon tea of delicately cut sandwiches, cakes, biscuits and scones with cream and jam, and of course the best tea of the area - "champagne tea". At 6.30 we listened to a talk, and watched a film about the history of the area, with a glass of complementary wine, before settling down for dinner. Again a 5 course offering. Although the menu, after soup, then indicates a typically British dish or an Indian meal, in reality we are offered, and consume, both.
With a large meal inside us, and a glass or three of wine we settled down to sleep, as we are setting the alarm for 3.40am, in order to head to Tiger Hill and hopefully on this occasion a better sunrise as we look at the Khangchendzonga range.
23 APRIL 2013
We woke with the alarm at 3.40 this morning, and were on our way by 4am. It didn't look too promising, as the stars and moon of last night had been replaced by clouds. As we drove through Darjeeling, we were amazed at the number of people who were around so early. We were informed that they were all heading to Tiger Hill, as it is an excellent place for viewing sunrise, although, at this time of year, there are more disappointments than successes.
We arrived shortly before 5am and could already see a pink glow in the sky to the East. We were amazed at how many people were also there. At the very least there were a thousand people, and our guide advised us that it was in fact a quiet morning. We were extremely lucky, because as well as a reasonable, although not exceptional sunrise, as we looked to the East, we also saw the sun rising over Khanchendzonga which was clearly visible to the North East, although the sky did not have the same reddish colour.
EARLY MORNING - KHANCHENDZONGA
SUNRISE OVER KHANCHENDZONGA RANGE
On the way back to our hotel, we stopped at another monastery, and saw a huge Buddha, certainly the largest we have seen, and probably 15 to 18 feet tall. We returned to re-start the day with showers and a shave, before breakfast.
TALL AND MIGHTY BUDDHA
We were on our way again at 9am, and initially headed to The Tibetan Refugee Self-help Centre. After the Chinese invasion thousands of Tibetan refugees settled in Darjeeling. The rehabilitation centre was set up in 1959 to help them to continue to practice their skills and sell their produce. It was a fantastic experience to watch skills, which were once practiced at home but have now been lost, being put to good use. There was painting, sewing and wood carving. But most impressive was the whole process of using the wool of their animals. We saw the treated and dried wool being carded and then spun, before being rolled into balls. This was followed by it being dyed with a variety of natural colours using local herbs, roots and vegetables, before it was then woven on the loom, or made into carpets using carefully prepared pattern charts.
WOOL SORTER
CARDING WOOL
SPINNING WOOL
WEAVING WOOL
The next visit was to the Himalayan Mountain Institute. To get to it we had to pass through the zoo. I am not a great fan of zoos as I hate to see wild animals confined to small enclosures. I accept that it is sometimes necessary, particularly for endangered species. Among the animals in the zoo, many of which are endangered, were a snow leopard and clouded leopards, neither of which we had, of course, seen before. It can only be hoped that their captivity helps to maintain the viability of their species, as to be honest none of them looked content, pacing around their enclosures and appearing stressed.
The Himalayan Mountain Institute was very interesting, and it was fascinating to see some of the original tents, clothes, boots, crampons, rucksacks and tents used by the original explorers in the Himalayas. They were tough guys.
We had a brief stop back at the hotel, before our final trip out in Darjeeling. We had decided that we could not visit Darjeeling without going on the Toy Train, or the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway. This is steam railway running on a 0.6 metre gauge track. The train now only covers the 40 minute journey from Darjeeling ascending 305 metres to Ghoom, at 2438 metres. But what a journey.
The train, pulled by steam engines 150 years old, jerked and jarred its way uphill, while bellowing out thick clouds of the most acrid smelling black smoke. It is almost impossible to see through the Perspex roof of the carriages because of the thick layers of dense black soot, and the cables running around Darjeeling, where they pass over the station have thick deposits of black particles clinging to them. It was impossible to travel with the windows open, and as we got out at the mid way point, particles of soot were falling on top of us.
As the train ascends the hill at times it goes so close to houses that it would be possible to reach out and exchange high 5s with the residents as they sit in their doorways, and so close to shops that it would be possible to lean out and practice a little shop lifting. All these people are subjected to the foul polluting smoke as the train wends its way uphill, and it was amusing to watch pedestrians, bikers and car passengers alike, put their hands to their mouths and flick soot from their head, faces and clothes as we passed by. And it was frightening also to notice that we passed stall with chickens and fish on display, which by the time we had passed were also covered in black soot. We wouldn't have bought from these stalls before, as the chickens were on open display before being weighed on scale which looked as though they probably hadn't been washed since they had been bought.
I honestly think we did more damage to the environment in our 40 minute journey, than we will do by flying from Manchester to India and back.
150 YEAR OLD STEAM ENGINE
ENGINE STOKER
POLLUTING THE ENVIRONMENT
We returned to our total, said goodbye to Abishek and Vinod, with whom we had shared 6 most enjoyable, varied and interesting days, and then settled down for yet another afternoon tea, served by a maid in her black and white uniform (think we could get used to this). We are now waiting for a knock on the door, and will have an open fire lit, before showering and bathing with a G&T and a whiskey (delivered by room service), and get ourselves prepared to face another 5 course dinner.
Tomorrow is a lie-in, as we don't leave until 10am, heading to Glenburn Tea Estate for two nights of rest and relaxation.
TEA PICKER
We dropped into the town of Darjeeling, which was much like all of the others we have visited, being noisy, crowded and in most places rather shabby and muddy. As we approached our hotel, the weather became even worse and we needed umbrellas as we got out and to get to our room. With the beautiful vegetation and mountain scenery, the cool climate and the rain, it is easy to see why The East India Company decided to use Darjeeling as a base to escape the intense heat of Kolkota, and to move with the instruments of government en masse to Darjeeling. It is built on a crescent shaped ridge, surrounded by hills which are thickly covered with coniferous forests and terraced tea gardens.
As we arrived at Windamere Hotel we were greeted by Elizabeth Clarke, the Executive Director. In conversation she asked where we were from, and for the second time we met someone in India who knew of Poulton-le-Fylde. Her sister lives in Wesham, just 6 or 7 miles away, and she herself originates from Stalybridge.
The "Windamere" is not a misspelling. In 1939, when it first became a hotel, one of the partners came from Windermere, where there is already a Windermere Hotel. The previous boarding house was re-"named The Windamere Hotel. It is in fact the oldest Colonial Hotel in India, and although it has been restored, it still retains all of its original features. It is like stepping back in time, with lovely wooden floors and old furniture in all of the rooms, and open fireplaces throughout the property, including in our bedroom. It is very easy to imagine what it was like when it was used as a boarding house for the newly arrived tea planters from England, and we would not be surprised to see everyone turn up for a dinner dance or a tea party, dressed in formal attire.
We had a leisurely 5 course lunch, and as it was still raining, Cherith had a manicure and pedicure, and I read, sorted photos and updated my blog. At 4.30 we then went to the sitting room for afternoon tea of delicately cut sandwiches, cakes, biscuits and scones with cream and jam, and of course the best tea of the area - "champagne tea". At 6.30 we listened to a talk, and watched a film about the history of the area, with a glass of complementary wine, before settling down for dinner. Again a 5 course offering. Although the menu, after soup, then indicates a typically British dish or an Indian meal, in reality we are offered, and consume, both.
With a large meal inside us, and a glass or three of wine we settled down to sleep, as we are setting the alarm for 3.40am, in order to head to Tiger Hill and hopefully on this occasion a better sunrise as we look at the Khangchendzonga range.
23 APRIL 2013
We woke with the alarm at 3.40 this morning, and were on our way by 4am. It didn't look too promising, as the stars and moon of last night had been replaced by clouds. As we drove through Darjeeling, we were amazed at the number of people who were around so early. We were informed that they were all heading to Tiger Hill, as it is an excellent place for viewing sunrise, although, at this time of year, there are more disappointments than successes.
We arrived shortly before 5am and could already see a pink glow in the sky to the East. We were amazed at how many people were also there. At the very least there were a thousand people, and our guide advised us that it was in fact a quiet morning. We were extremely lucky, because as well as a reasonable, although not exceptional sunrise, as we looked to the East, we also saw the sun rising over Khanchendzonga which was clearly visible to the North East, although the sky did not have the same reddish colour.
EARLY MORNING - KHANCHENDZONGA
SUNRISE OVER KHANCHENDZONGA RANGE
On the way back to our hotel, we stopped at another monastery, and saw a huge Buddha, certainly the largest we have seen, and probably 15 to 18 feet tall. We returned to re-start the day with showers and a shave, before breakfast.
TALL AND MIGHTY BUDDHA
We were on our way again at 9am, and initially headed to The Tibetan Refugee Self-help Centre. After the Chinese invasion thousands of Tibetan refugees settled in Darjeeling. The rehabilitation centre was set up in 1959 to help them to continue to practice their skills and sell their produce. It was a fantastic experience to watch skills, which were once practiced at home but have now been lost, being put to good use. There was painting, sewing and wood carving. But most impressive was the whole process of using the wool of their animals. We saw the treated and dried wool being carded and then spun, before being rolled into balls. This was followed by it being dyed with a variety of natural colours using local herbs, roots and vegetables, before it was then woven on the loom, or made into carpets using carefully prepared pattern charts.
WOOL SORTER
CARDING WOOL
SPINNING WOOL
WEAVING WOOL
The next visit was to the Himalayan Mountain Institute. To get to it we had to pass through the zoo. I am not a great fan of zoos as I hate to see wild animals confined to small enclosures. I accept that it is sometimes necessary, particularly for endangered species. Among the animals in the zoo, many of which are endangered, were a snow leopard and clouded leopards, neither of which we had, of course, seen before. It can only be hoped that their captivity helps to maintain the viability of their species, as to be honest none of them looked content, pacing around their enclosures and appearing stressed.
The Himalayan Mountain Institute was very interesting, and it was fascinating to see some of the original tents, clothes, boots, crampons, rucksacks and tents used by the original explorers in the Himalayas. They were tough guys.
We had a brief stop back at the hotel, before our final trip out in Darjeeling. We had decided that we could not visit Darjeeling without going on the Toy Train, or the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway. This is steam railway running on a 0.6 metre gauge track. The train now only covers the 40 minute journey from Darjeeling ascending 305 metres to Ghoom, at 2438 metres. But what a journey.
The train, pulled by steam engines 150 years old, jerked and jarred its way uphill, while bellowing out thick clouds of the most acrid smelling black smoke. It is almost impossible to see through the Perspex roof of the carriages because of the thick layers of dense black soot, and the cables running around Darjeeling, where they pass over the station have thick deposits of black particles clinging to them. It was impossible to travel with the windows open, and as we got out at the mid way point, particles of soot were falling on top of us.
As the train ascends the hill at times it goes so close to houses that it would be possible to reach out and exchange high 5s with the residents as they sit in their doorways, and so close to shops that it would be possible to lean out and practice a little shop lifting. All these people are subjected to the foul polluting smoke as the train wends its way uphill, and it was amusing to watch pedestrians, bikers and car passengers alike, put their hands to their mouths and flick soot from their head, faces and clothes as we passed by. And it was frightening also to notice that we passed stall with chickens and fish on display, which by the time we had passed were also covered in black soot. We wouldn't have bought from these stalls before, as the chickens were on open display before being weighed on scale which looked as though they probably hadn't been washed since they had been bought.
I honestly think we did more damage to the environment in our 40 minute journey, than we will do by flying from Manchester to India and back.
150 YEAR OLD STEAM ENGINE
ENGINE STOKER
POLLUTING THE ENVIRONMENT
We returned to our total, said goodbye to Abishek and Vinod, with whom we had shared 6 most enjoyable, varied and interesting days, and then settled down for yet another afternoon tea, served by a maid in her black and white uniform (think we could get used to this). We are now waiting for a knock on the door, and will have an open fire lit, before showering and bathing with a G&T and a whiskey (delivered by room service), and get ourselves prepared to face another 5 course dinner.
Tomorrow is a lie-in, as we don't leave until 10am, heading to Glenburn Tea Estate for two nights of rest and relaxation.
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