Thursday, 25 April 2013
Tea Estate, BBQ river side lunch and snow capped Himalayan view
No photos due to poor internet access
24 APRIL 2013
Had another excellent meal last night, and then headed to bed and the luxury of a hot water bottle! This had been more than necessary the previous night as it had been cold, but was still welcome last night, although not strictly needed.
After a leisurely breakfast and a stroll around Observatory Hill, we left Windamere at 10 am, and for this journey at least it wasn't raining. I would hate to be here in a few weeks when the monsoons start. Apparently they are not the short lived, heavy rain on an intermittent basis, as I had thought, but in Darjeeling it will rain torrentially and solidly for several days, perhaps stop for a day, and then recommence, continuing in this pattern until August. Goodness only knows what the dusty and muddy streets will be like, or how people living in tiny accommodation, with wood or corrugated sheets as walls and roofs will cope.
The journey to Glenburn Tea Estate initially retraced our journey to Darjeeling, and then we took a side road for the second half of the 90 minute journey. As we got closer the road got narrower and bumpier, and when we did meet other vehicles travelling in the opposite direction there was no room to pass without reversing.
At 11.30 we arrived at our home for the next two days, and what a fantastic spot. The Glenburn Tea Estate employs 1000 people from the eight surrounding villages. Close to the tea factory a "boutique hotel" has been established. We were shown to our spacious room with sitting area, as well as a separate lounge and balcony for the 4 rooms in our section of the hotel. The views are spectacular with mountain scenery, tea plantations, villages, and in the distance a view of Darjeeling. And there are apparently amazing views of Khanchendzonga, which hopefully will be visible tomorrow morning.
While waiting for lunch we sat on the terrace in front of the reception area, looking out over the Himalayas and downed a beer, and then at 1.30 we joined the other guest for lunch. The food was excellent, and we sat and chatted until 3pm. Of the other three people at lunch, one was Brian, initially from Derbyshire, who for the last 22 years has worked as a psychologist in Kolkota.
After lunch we went for a stroll down a track, and through one of the local villages. I had taken a few photos, and was just taking a view of some of the houses, when one of the locals decided to "adopt" us, and take us on a guided tour, despite the fact that he spoke no English. This, however, meant that he took us to one of the houses and I was able to take a photo of the kitchen.
We returned to the hotel just before the rain started, and a good job we were back, because once again it was extremely heavy. We wandered up to the main area for a cup of tea, and discovered afternoon tea - cucumber sandwiches, cake and scones with jam - was being served. Well it was 2 hours since we had finished lunch!
After showering and changing, we returned to the lounge at 7.30 for drinks - G&T, whiskey etc - with the other six guests before a dinner served an hour later at a communal table. Don't think we will try nettle soup again but the main course of chicken was excellent, although the vegetables and potatoes perhaps contained too many different and confusing tastes.
We retired to bed at 11pm, with the alarm set for 4.45am, in the hope of a good sunrise, views of Khanchendzonga and hopefully some photographs.
25 APRIL 2013
The alarm went at 4.45this morning, and the view was awful with very low cloud. A further check after 10 minutes, and it was time to go back to bed. Cherith woke at about 5.45, and the view had dramatically improved, with the top of the snow covered Khanchendzonga and the whole range clearly visible. A quick dive out of bed and a very pleasant hour enjoying and photographing some incredible scenery.
After breakfast in a little courtyard, we decided to take the walk down the hill to the river, with a local guide to accompany us. The walk was scheduled to take about 2 1/2 hours. Our guide was excellent with superb knowledge of the beautiful local butterflies (102 species), birds (150 species), as well as breaking off leaves and branches from various trees and shrubs to tell us about their local use as traditional medicines. It was a fascinating and informative walk.
We were passed on the way down by a vehicle with two members of staff heading down to the river to prepare our lunch, and then, after about 2 hours, a second vehicle came round the corner and took us the final stage to the river. When we arrived there was a small lodge, and we were greeted with a drink and a cold towel. We then sat by the side of the river, watching a few more birds and looking at the incredible patterns and marks worn into the rocks by the elements over hundreds of years.
At 1pm, lunch was served, and the two of us we were waited on by 3 "waiters". We initially sat in small arm chairs at a little table for our starter of BBQd chicken Tikka, and a beer. We then sat at the table under a shade and had corn and spinach quiche, with two salads and potato mayonnaise, before finishing off with banana in a lovely orange, brandy and cinnamon sauce.
At 2.15 we climbed into the 4 wheel drive for an incredibly bumpy, tortuous and hair raising 45 minute journey back to the hotel. Just time to sit out on the balcony and update this blog, before heading back down for afternoon tea at 5pm, although may even limit this to a drink only if we are going to have any space left for dinner at 8.30.
At some stage we will have to pack, as want to get up again at 4.45am, and need to be ready to leave at 7am for Bagdogra airport and our flight to Kolkota. We have been advised that nothing that we have experienced so far will prepare us for Kolkota. It is going to be a head-on experience!
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