INDIA 5th May 2013 There are 17 million people in Delhi, and I think we saw them all today. There are 11 million registered cars and I think we saw them all, as well as all the unregistered ones! I think here are even more black kites constantly soaring in the thermals above Delhi. The first day in Delhi has been one of noise, colour, smells, heat, chaos and stunning buildings. Our guide today was Manjit, a former Indian cricket test player, who also has played for Surrey. He also is an expert in Delhi, having been born and bred here, as well as a carpet expert, specialising in old carpets, and having recently advised the Victoria Museum about carpets which were taken from Delhi to London. Our driver was Rakum and fortunately he is an excellent driver. There is only one rule in India - drive on the left! In a car in Delhi you need three things - a good horn, good brakes and good luck. Don't even think about stopping at a roundabout, and if another car, bike rickshaw or bus is in your way, just keep going. One or two people are killed every day in Delhi when travelling on auto rickshaws - I just don't understand why there aren't more. With a 9am start, we headed to an ATM and after a minor hiccup we were on our way. Travelling past the Red Fort, we made our way to Jama Mosque. With sandals removed and a long covering dress for Cherith, we had a good look around a mosque which is able to hold 20,000 people at a time. We then got into a rickshaw and were cycled around Old Delhi. Narrow streets and passageways, total congestion, and electricity cables hanging everywhere you looked. Food, jewellery, spices, fireworks, books, barbers, clothes... We then visited Mahatma Gandhi's tomb and Humayun's Tomb - the "masculine" equivalent of The Taj Mahal, which we will see in a few days time. A visit to the State Emporium for a shopping expedition, which was fortunately eased by a Fosters! - they must have been happy with the purchases. Finally we returned via Qutab Minar, a 73 metre minaret, India Gate and the Presidents Home and Parliament House. Tonight it's a meal in Dhaba Restaurant in our hotel and if it's anything like as good as last night's meal, we are in for a treat.