26 APRIL 2013
Well we have made it to Kolkota, the original and now modern name for Calcutta. We left behind the snow covered Himalayas, although heavy rain at sunset meant a lie-in and no further photos, and, driving via Darjeeling, eventually reached Bagdogra airport for our 1 hour flight. Very strict security checks as we were in a military airport, which involved having to get all cameras and lenses out of my hand luggage for it to be rescanned and repacked.
Then the usual efficient system whereby we were met at the airport by a local representative and driven in an air-conditioned vehicle to our hotel. We are staying for our last two nights in India in The Oberoi Grand, a Victorian heritage landmark, and one of the best hotels in Kolkota, and the photo of our bedroom shows that we are slumming it!
SLUMMING IT
We were told that Kolkota would be a shock to the system, but in fact that has not been the case. The first view as we drove into the older part of the city from the airport was of a massive area of development. The new area that is being built will eventually house 10 million people, with a complete infrastructure. Much of this accommodation will be for the employees of multi national companies locating to Kolkota, and a lot of the properties are being bought as investments.
Housing is a serious requirement in Kolkota, a city which covers 108 square kilometres, but which is home to between 15 and 20 million people - depending upon who we listen to - and these are just the official numbers. That area is roughly the size of the Fylde Coast with a population of maybe 300,000.
After settling into our hotel we went with our guide to the Howrah Bridge which crosses the River Hooghly, a tributary of the Ganges, and a holy river. This bridge was built at the start of the 2nd World War, to quickly move soldiers into India. It is said that each day half a million people cross the bridge, which expands by 3 metres a day in the heat! It is close to Howrah Train Station, which is the largest station in Asia, and people and vehicles stream across the bridge in both directions into and out of the city. Photography is forbidden on the bridge, as you will see, as I took my chance and stood directly beneath the sign indicating this prohibition.
STRICTLY PROHIBITED
As we left the bridge our guide took us to areas we would never have gone on our own. First of all we walked through some little market stalls, cramped and crowded, and then down a series of steps to the edge of the river. The idea was to see the bridge from a different angle for photography, but in the water and on the muddy concrete strip at the edge of the river were some Indian men and women having a bath. Despite not being able to speak each others language, I had a great "conversation" with one of them and a series of photos. My feet and sandals were covered in sludge and slime, but it was a great experience.
BATH TIME IN RIVER HOOGHLY
We walked back through the flower market. A lot of colour and noise, but also some unpleasant smells, and as we were the only Caucasians around a lot of intense stares. The journey back took us through the market, and as we were crawling at the average speed for rush hour traffic of 7km per hour, we were able to see a lot. It must be possible to buy anything, with for example a series of bazaars which sold nothing but wire.
A lazy evening followed as a prelude to our last day in India.
27 APRIL 2013
We were up and out by 8am, in order to see Kolkota before it was too hot. The temperature rose to about39C, but the main problem was humidity of 92%. We initially drove past Eden Park, where last night Kolkota beat Punjab in a 20/20 cricket match, attended by 70,000.
We spent some time in and around what would have been the centre of Kolkota in the days of the British Empire. We may or may not have done a lot for India when we ruled there, but we certainly left some excellent buildings. We saw the High Court, Town Hall, the official residence of the Governor of Bengal, the Assembly House and St John's Church. We also visited Mother Teresa's Missionaries of Charity, where Mother Teresa is buried. The final building we saw and wandered around was the Victoria Memorial completed in 1921.
MOTHER TERESA'S TOMB
Although the buildings were all interesting, it was also interesting to see some more of the local people and colour, as well as learn a little more of their lifestyles. One of the features that has been of interest is the number of women who are involved in heavy labouring, with road repairs and building - don't think of these activities like in England as they are all very primitive. Women carry bricks and cement, as well as large boulders. We were given the explanation that women can be employed at a cheaper rate than men, receiving 100 rupees per day instead of perhaps 130 rupees i.e. £1.25 instead of £1.60. It is almost impossible to understand these figures, but by the same token a haircut on the street would be about 7 rupees, and in an indoor air-conditioned barbers it would still only be 30 rupees. Sadly if there is no work, there is no money, as apart from simple health care, excluding medication, there is no fall back system in terms of state support.
WOMAN LABOURER - FOR £1.25 PER DAY
Before lunch, we had a wander on our own around the little bazaars just outside the hotel, and as far as Park Road, a major shopping road, where we wandered into the Oxford Bookshop. Again we were very conspicuous, as in 45 minutes we did not see another Caucasian, and Cherith in particular with her light hair was stared at constantly, although at no stage either today, or at any other time while in India have we felt uncomfortable or threatened.
After lunch in the Oberoi, where we bumped into Brian, the British psychologist working here who we met a few days ago in Glenburn, we set off for our final outing. We had a very pleasant two hours on a river boat, travelling along the Hooghly River, and seeing Calcutta from a different aspect, as well as seeing the small and large boats on the river, and all along its course, people bathing in its muddy waters.
RIVER BOAT AND HOWRAH BRIDGE
COMMUNAL BATH TIME ON RIVER HOOGHLY
All that remains is to pack, have our evening meal, and set off tomorrow morning at 7.30 to return to England. There will be just one more blog tomorrow, if we have internet access while travelling, to try to summarise our impressions of this intriguing country, unless of course anything dramatic happens on our return home.
SLUMMING IT
We were told that Kolkota would be a shock to the system, but in fact that has not been the case. The first view as we drove into the older part of the city from the airport was of a massive area of development. The new area that is being built will eventually house 10 million people, with a complete infrastructure. Much of this accommodation will be for the employees of multi national companies locating to Kolkota, and a lot of the properties are being bought as investments.
Housing is a serious requirement in Kolkota, a city which covers 108 square kilometres, but which is home to between 15 and 20 million people - depending upon who we listen to - and these are just the official numbers. That area is roughly the size of the Fylde Coast with a population of maybe 300,000.
After settling into our hotel we went with our guide to the Howrah Bridge which crosses the River Hooghly, a tributary of the Ganges, and a holy river. This bridge was built at the start of the 2nd World War, to quickly move soldiers into India. It is said that each day half a million people cross the bridge, which expands by 3 metres a day in the heat! It is close to Howrah Train Station, which is the largest station in Asia, and people and vehicles stream across the bridge in both directions into and out of the city. Photography is forbidden on the bridge, as you will see, as I took my chance and stood directly beneath the sign indicating this prohibition.
STRICTLY PROHIBITED
As we left the bridge our guide took us to areas we would never have gone on our own. First of all we walked through some little market stalls, cramped and crowded, and then down a series of steps to the edge of the river. The idea was to see the bridge from a different angle for photography, but in the water and on the muddy concrete strip at the edge of the river were some Indian men and women having a bath. Despite not being able to speak each others language, I had a great "conversation" with one of them and a series of photos. My feet and sandals were covered in sludge and slime, but it was a great experience.
BATH TIME IN RIVER HOOGHLY
We walked back through the flower market. A lot of colour and noise, but also some unpleasant smells, and as we were the only Caucasians around a lot of intense stares. The journey back took us through the market, and as we were crawling at the average speed for rush hour traffic of 7km per hour, we were able to see a lot. It must be possible to buy anything, with for example a series of bazaars which sold nothing but wire.
A lazy evening followed as a prelude to our last day in India.
27 APRIL 2013
We were up and out by 8am, in order to see Kolkota before it was too hot. The temperature rose to about39C, but the main problem was humidity of 92%. We initially drove past Eden Park, where last night Kolkota beat Punjab in a 20/20 cricket match, attended by 70,000.
We spent some time in and around what would have been the centre of Kolkota in the days of the British Empire. We may or may not have done a lot for India when we ruled there, but we certainly left some excellent buildings. We saw the High Court, Town Hall, the official residence of the Governor of Bengal, the Assembly House and St John's Church. We also visited Mother Teresa's Missionaries of Charity, where Mother Teresa is buried. The final building we saw and wandered around was the Victoria Memorial completed in 1921.
MOTHER TERESA'S TOMB
Although the buildings were all interesting, it was also interesting to see some more of the local people and colour, as well as learn a little more of their lifestyles. One of the features that has been of interest is the number of women who are involved in heavy labouring, with road repairs and building - don't think of these activities like in England as they are all very primitive. Women carry bricks and cement, as well as large boulders. We were given the explanation that women can be employed at a cheaper rate than men, receiving 100 rupees per day instead of perhaps 130 rupees i.e. £1.25 instead of £1.60. It is almost impossible to understand these figures, but by the same token a haircut on the street would be about 7 rupees, and in an indoor air-conditioned barbers it would still only be 30 rupees. Sadly if there is no work, there is no money, as apart from simple health care, excluding medication, there is no fall back system in terms of state support.
WOMAN LABOURER - FOR £1.25 PER DAY
Before lunch, we had a wander on our own around the little bazaars just outside the hotel, and as far as Park Road, a major shopping road, where we wandered into the Oxford Bookshop. Again we were very conspicuous, as in 45 minutes we did not see another Caucasian, and Cherith in particular with her light hair was stared at constantly, although at no stage either today, or at any other time while in India have we felt uncomfortable or threatened.
After lunch in the Oberoi, where we bumped into Brian, the British psychologist working here who we met a few days ago in Glenburn, we set off for our final outing. We had a very pleasant two hours on a river boat, travelling along the Hooghly River, and seeing Calcutta from a different aspect, as well as seeing the small and large boats on the river, and all along its course, people bathing in its muddy waters.
RIVER BOAT AND HOWRAH BRIDGE
COMMUNAL BATH TIME ON RIVER HOOGHLY
All that remains is to pack, have our evening meal, and set off tomorrow morning at 7.30 to return to England. There will be just one more blog tomorrow, if we have internet access while travelling, to try to summarise our impressions of this intriguing country, unless of course anything dramatic happens on our return home.
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