India - a land of contrasts - fascinating but frustrating; irresistible but irritating

We have now come to the end of 25 days in India, and it is so difficult to summarise the whole amazing experience that is India. India is at the same time fascinating and frustrating, irresistible and irritating. It is said that no matter what you say about India, it is possible to say the exact opposite, and for both statements to be true. There are a whole series of dichotomies and contradictions, which it is difficult to get our heads around. 1. It is a massive country but everywhere we have travelled there have been people, people and then more people. Whether it be the major cities of Delhi and Calcutta, the towns of Gangtok, Kalimpong and Darjeeling, or the little villages that we have passed through like Teesta, there are seething masses of humanity. Perhaps this is not surprising as the population is already over 1 billion, and is said to be increasing by a massive 1 million people each month. 2. It is a beautiful country, with fantastic scenery and a stunning heritage. But in so many places, it appears that it is not loved, cared for or cherished, and litter is discarded everywhere with no apparent concern for the visual impact. 3. It is a very religious country, and it appears that whether a person is a Hindu, a Buddhist or follows one of the more minor religions, their personal religion is a way of life for the vast majority. But at the same time from what we have observed and been told, the country survives on corruption and bribery. 4. It is a very poor country, although there is also huge wealth for a minority, but we have seen, that at least superficially, the majority of the population appear to be happy. They can teach us a lesson, that you can be happy, and indeed happier, when material objects and personal ambitions are of little significance. 5. The average wage is 120 rupees per day, or about £1.50! Despite that we saw satellite dishes on some of the poorest looking properties in the most remote locations, and everywhere we went we saw people on mobile phones, and watches were common. 6. Many areas are dirty and muddy, not just where litter has been abandoned, but in tidier villages and towns, and caused by the pot-holed and at times non-existent roads, bordering directly onto houses and shops. But at the same time the majority of people are well turned out and their clothes, even when white, are and remain incredibly clean. It was impressive to see children on their way to and from school, immaculately turned out with shirts and ties, creased trousers and skirts, and the girls with plaited hair and ribbons. I really have no idea how they can manage this, particularly considering the size of some of their houses. Above all India is a sensory experience and we are ready to return home to recover from sensory overload. The natural smells of flowers and trees, as well as the smells in the markets and at the table of spices are a constant assault on the sense of smell. Visual stimulation is provided by the natural colours of the lovely birds and butterflies, the bright saris of the ladies, the painted houses, the almost psychedelic colours in the monasteries, and once again the spices, fruit and vegetables in the market. Taste has been more than catered for in the interesting and varied meals that we have eaten, with our favourites being the restaurants in our hotels in Delhi and Agra. Touch has perhaps been the least stimulated sensation, but provided by the different feels of wool and silk used in dresses and other clothes as well as in the beautifully woven carpets. And finally there is noise, noise and more noise. Some of it the enjoyable sounds of morning bird song, but others due to rowdy football training, barking dogs, singing and shouting in the street, surprisingly loud chattering in monuments such as the Taj Mahal, but above all the incessant sound of the horns of cars, bikes, lorries, rickshaws and anything else on two or four wheels. Time to say goodbye to India, sign off from this blog and return to the "normality" of home, but probably in a few days we will be experiencing withdrawal symptoms from the India that we have experienced and which has given us memories that we will never forget.

Slumming it, bathing in the river and 7 rupees for a haircut

26 APRIL 2013 Well we have made it to Kolkota, the original and now modern name for Calcutta. We left behind the snow covered Himalayas, although heavy rain at sunset meant a lie-in and no further photos, and, driving via Darjeeling, eventually reached Bagdogra airport for our 1 hour flight. Very strict security checks as we were in a military airport, which involved having to get all cameras and lenses out of my hand luggage for it to be rescanned and repacked. Then the usual efficient system whereby we were met at the airport by a local representative and driven in an air-conditioned vehicle to our hotel. We are staying for our last two nights in India in The Oberoi Grand, a Victorian heritage landmark, and one of the best hotels in Kolkota, and the photo of our bedroom shows that we are slumming it! SLUMMING IT We were told that Kolkota would be a shock to the system, but in fact that has not been the case. The first view as we drove into the older part of the city from the airport was of a massive area of development. The new area that is being built will eventually house 10 million people, with a complete infrastructure. Much of this accommodation will be for the employees of multi national companies locating to Kolkota, and a lot of the properties are being bought as investments. Housing is a serious requirement in Kolkota, a city which covers 108 square kilometres, but which is home to between 15 and 20 million people - depending upon who we listen to - and these are just the official numbers. That area is roughly the size of the Fylde Coast with a population of maybe 300,000. After settling into our hotel we went with our guide to the Howrah Bridge which crosses the River Hooghly, a tributary of the Ganges, and a holy river. This bridge was built at the start of the 2nd World War, to quickly move soldiers into India. It is said that each day half a million people cross the bridge, which expands by 3 metres a day in the heat! It is close to Howrah Train Station, which is the largest station in Asia, and people and vehicles stream across the bridge in both directions into and out of the city. Photography is forbidden on the bridge, as you will see, as I took my chance and stood directly beneath the sign indicating this prohibition. STRICTLY PROHIBITED As we left the bridge our guide took us to areas we would never have gone on our own. First of all we walked through some little market stalls, cramped and crowded, and then down a series of steps to the edge of the river. The idea was to see the bridge from a different angle for photography, but in the water and on the muddy concrete strip at the edge of the river were some Indian men and women having a bath. Despite not being able to speak each others language, I had a great "conversation" with one of them and a series of photos. My feet and sandals were covered in sludge and slime, but it was a great experience. BATH TIME IN RIVER HOOGHLY We walked back through the flower market. A lot of colour and noise, but also some unpleasant smells, and as we were the only Caucasians around a lot of intense stares. The journey back took us through the market, and as we were crawling at the average speed for rush hour traffic of 7km per hour, we were able to see a lot. It must be possible to buy anything, with for example a series of bazaars which sold nothing but wire. A lazy evening followed as a prelude to our last day in India. 27 APRIL 2013 We were up and out by 8am, in order to see Kolkota before it was too hot. The temperature rose to about39C, but the main problem was humidity of 92%. We initially drove past Eden Park, where last night Kolkota beat Punjab in a 20/20 cricket match, attended by 70,000. We spent some time in and around what would have been the centre of Kolkota in the days of the British Empire. We may or may not have done a lot for India when we ruled there, but we certainly left some excellent buildings. We saw the High Court, Town Hall, the official residence of the Governor of Bengal, the Assembly House and St John's Church. We also visited Mother Teresa's Missionaries of Charity, where Mother Teresa is buried. The final building we saw and wandered around was the Victoria Memorial completed in 1921. MOTHER TERESA'S TOMB Although the buildings were all interesting, it was also interesting to see some more of the local people and colour, as well as learn a little more of their lifestyles. One of the features that has been of interest is the number of women who are involved in heavy labouring, with road repairs and building - don't think of these activities like in England as they are all very primitive. Women carry bricks and cement, as well as large boulders. We were given the explanation that women can be employed at a cheaper rate than men, receiving 100 rupees per day instead of perhaps 130 rupees i.e. £1.25 instead of £1.60. It is almost impossible to understand these figures, but by the same token a haircut on the street would be about 7 rupees, and in an indoor air-conditioned barbers it would still only be 30 rupees. Sadly if there is no work, there is no money, as apart from simple health care, excluding medication, there is no fall back system in terms of state support. WOMAN LABOURER - FOR £1.25 PER DAY Before lunch, we had a wander on our own around the little bazaars just outside the hotel, and as far as Park Road, a major shopping road, where we wandered into the Oxford Bookshop. Again we were very conspicuous, as in 45 minutes we did not see another Caucasian, and Cherith in particular with her light hair was stared at constantly, although at no stage either today, or at any other time while in India have we felt uncomfortable or threatened. After lunch in the Oberoi, where we bumped into Brian, the British psychologist working here who we met a few days ago in Glenburn, we set off for our final outing. We had a very pleasant two hours on a river boat, travelling along the Hooghly River, and seeing Calcutta from a different aspect, as well as seeing the small and large boats on the river, and all along its course, people bathing in its muddy waters. RIVER BOAT AND HOWRAH BRIDGE COMMUNAL BATH TIME ON RIVER HOOGHLY All that remains is to pack, have our evening meal, and set off tomorrow morning at 7.30 to return to England. There will be just one more blog tomorrow, if we have internet access while travelling, to try to summarise our impressions of this intriguing country, unless of course anything dramatic happens on our return home.

Tea Estate, BBQ river side lunch and snow capped Himalayan view

No photos due to poor internet access 24 APRIL 2013 Had another excellent meal last night, and then headed to bed and the luxury of a hot water bottle! This had been more than necessary the previous night as it had been cold, but was still welcome last night, although not strictly needed. After a leisurely breakfast and a stroll around Observatory Hill, we left Windamere at 10 am, and for this journey at least it wasn't raining. I would hate to be here in a few weeks when the monsoons start. Apparently they are not the short lived, heavy rain on an intermittent basis, as I had thought, but in Darjeeling it will rain torrentially and solidly for several days, perhaps stop for a day, and then recommence, continuing in this pattern until August. Goodness only knows what the dusty and muddy streets will be like, or how people living in tiny accommodation, with wood or corrugated sheets as walls and roofs will cope. The journey to Glenburn Tea Estate initially retraced our journey to Darjeeling, and then we took a side road for the second half of the 90 minute journey. As we got closer the road got narrower and bumpier, and when we did meet other vehicles travelling in the opposite direction there was no room to pass without reversing. At 11.30 we arrived at our home for the next two days, and what a fantastic spot. The Glenburn Tea Estate employs 1000 people from the eight surrounding villages. Close to the tea factory a "boutique hotel" has been established. We were shown to our spacious room with sitting area, as well as a separate lounge and balcony for the 4 rooms in our section of the hotel. The views are spectacular with mountain scenery, tea plantations, villages, and in the distance a view of Darjeeling. And there are apparently amazing views of Khanchendzonga, which hopefully will be visible tomorrow morning. While waiting for lunch we sat on the terrace in front of the reception area, looking out over the Himalayas and downed a beer, and then at 1.30 we joined the other guest for lunch. The food was excellent, and we sat and chatted until 3pm. Of the other three people at lunch, one was Brian, initially from Derbyshire, who for the last 22 years has worked as a psychologist in Kolkota. After lunch we went for a stroll down a track, and through one of the local villages. I had taken a few photos, and was just taking a view of some of the houses, when one of the locals decided to "adopt" us, and take us on a guided tour, despite the fact that he spoke no English. This, however, meant that he took us to one of the houses and I was able to take a photo of the kitchen. We returned to the hotel just before the rain started, and a good job we were back, because once again it was extremely heavy. We wandered up to the main area for a cup of tea, and discovered afternoon tea - cucumber sandwiches, cake and scones with jam - was being served. Well it was 2 hours since we had finished lunch! After showering and changing, we returned to the lounge at 7.30 for drinks - G&T, whiskey etc - with the other six guests before a dinner served an hour later at a communal table. Don't think we will try nettle soup again but the main course of chicken was excellent, although the vegetables and potatoes perhaps contained too many different and confusing tastes. We retired to bed at 11pm, with the alarm set for 4.45am, in the hope of a good sunrise, views of Khanchendzonga and hopefully some photographs. 25 APRIL 2013 The alarm went at 4.45this morning, and the view was awful with very low cloud. A further check after 10 minutes, and it was time to go back to bed. Cherith woke at about 5.45, and the view had dramatically improved, with the top of the snow covered Khanchendzonga and the whole range clearly visible. A quick dive out of bed and a very pleasant hour enjoying and photographing some incredible scenery. After breakfast in a little courtyard, we decided to take the walk down the hill to the river, with a local guide to accompany us. The walk was scheduled to take about 2 1/2 hours. Our guide was excellent with superb knowledge of the beautiful local butterflies (102 species), birds (150 species), as well as breaking off leaves and branches from various trees and shrubs to tell us about their local use as traditional medicines. It was a fascinating and informative walk. We were passed on the way down by a vehicle with two members of staff heading down to the river to prepare our lunch, and then, after about 2 hours, a second vehicle came round the corner and took us the final stage to the river. When we arrived there was a small lodge, and we were greeted with a drink and a cold towel. We then sat by the side of the river, watching a few more birds and looking at the incredible patterns and marks worn into the rocks by the elements over hundreds of years. At 1pm, lunch was served, and the two of us we were waited on by 3 "waiters". We initially sat in small arm chairs at a little table for our starter of BBQd chicken Tikka, and a beer. We then sat at the table under a shade and had corn and spinach quiche, with two salads and potato mayonnaise, before finishing off with banana in a lovely orange, brandy and cinnamon sauce. At 2.15 we climbed into the 4 wheel drive for an incredibly bumpy, tortuous and hair raising 45 minute journey back to the hotel. Just time to sit out on the balcony and update this blog, before heading back down for afternoon tea at 5pm, although may even limit this to a drink only if we are going to have any space left for dinner at 8.30. At some stage we will have to pack, as want to get up again at 4.45am, and need to be ready to leave at 7am for Bagdogra airport and our flight to Kolkota. We have been advised that nothing that we have experienced so far will prepare us for Kolkota. It is going to be a head-on experience!

Why I didn't hire a car in India!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RcVIgvMmz5o

Darjeeling - "champagne tea", Colonial Hotel; Toy-Train and more

22 APRIL 2013 It was time to leave Kalimpong and Orchid Retreat this morning. We had been on a bed and breakfast basis, but because we were a little way out of Kalimpong, we had opted to have our lunches and dinner there. Our lunches were sandwiches with tea and coffee, but for dinner we had soup, followed by chicken with rice, rotis, two different vegetables and then tea and coffee. Dinner over the two nights was washed down with 4 bottles of Kingfisher. The total bill, including service charge, was 2600 Rupees, or about £33! As we left Kalimpong behind it was raining, and continued to rain on and off through the journey, although we still had some great views as we dropped down to the Teesta River, flowing from the Himalayas, through most of Sikkim and on to the Bay of Bengal. We then started our ascent through Teesta village towards Darjeeling. The whole area is very picturesque, with large swathes of forest and mountain scenery. This obviously results in some incredibly tortuous roads, with double hairpin bends, accompanied by the normal potholes and roads which are in places not a lot wider than a single car. As we approached Darjeeling, we started to see the numerous and vast tea plantations, reminding me of the vineyards of France and South Africa. We were able to stop at one point and take photos of a group of ladies picking tea. They are currently picking the "first flush", the small light green leaves which are used to make white and green tea. It looked like back breaking and slow work, but perhaps like ladies anywhere they still found time to talk incessantly as they went about their tasks. TEA PICKER We dropped into the town of Darjeeling, which was much like all of the others we have visited, being noisy, crowded and in most places rather shabby and muddy. As we approached our hotel, the weather became even worse and we needed umbrellas as we got out and to get to our room. With the beautiful vegetation and mountain scenery, the cool climate and the rain, it is easy to see why The East India Company decided to use Darjeeling as a base to escape the intense heat of Kolkota, and to move with the instruments of government en masse to Darjeeling. It is built on a crescent shaped ridge, surrounded by hills which are thickly covered with coniferous forests and terraced tea gardens. As we arrived at Windamere Hotel we were greeted by Elizabeth Clarke, the Executive Director. In conversation she asked where we were from, and for the second time we met someone in India who knew of Poulton-le-Fylde. Her sister lives in Wesham, just 6 or 7 miles away, and she herself originates from Stalybridge. The "Windamere" is not a misspelling. In 1939, when it first became a hotel, one of the partners came from Windermere, where there is already a Windermere Hotel. The previous boarding house was re-"named The Windamere Hotel. It is in fact the oldest Colonial Hotel in India, and although it has been restored, it still retains all of its original features. It is like stepping back in time, with lovely wooden floors and old furniture in all of the rooms, and open fireplaces throughout the property, including in our bedroom. It is very easy to imagine what it was like when it was used as a boarding house for the newly arrived tea planters from England, and we would not be surprised to see everyone turn up for a dinner dance or a tea party, dressed in formal attire. We had a leisurely 5 course lunch, and as it was still raining, Cherith had a manicure and pedicure, and I read, sorted photos and updated my blog. At 4.30 we then went to the sitting room for afternoon tea of delicately cut sandwiches, cakes, biscuits and scones with cream and jam, and of course the best tea of the area - "champagne tea". At 6.30 we listened to a talk, and watched a film about the history of the area, with a glass of complementary wine, before settling down for dinner. Again a 5 course offering. Although the menu, after soup, then indicates a typically British dish or an Indian meal, in reality we are offered, and consume, both. With a large meal inside us, and a glass or three of wine we settled down to sleep, as we are setting the alarm for 3.40am, in order to head to Tiger Hill and hopefully on this occasion a better sunrise as we look at the Khangchendzonga range. 23 APRIL 2013 We woke with the alarm at 3.40 this morning, and were on our way by 4am. It didn't look too promising, as the stars and moon of last night had been replaced by clouds. As we drove through Darjeeling, we were amazed at the number of people who were around so early. We were informed that they were all heading to Tiger Hill, as it is an excellent place for viewing sunrise, although, at this time of year, there are more disappointments than successes. We arrived shortly before 5am and could already see a pink glow in the sky to the East. We were amazed at how many people were also there. At the very least there were a thousand people, and our guide advised us that it was in fact a quiet morning. We were extremely lucky, because as well as a reasonable, although not exceptional sunrise, as we looked to the East, we also saw the sun rising over Khanchendzonga which was clearly visible to the North East, although the sky did not have the same reddish colour. EARLY MORNING - KHANCHENDZONGA SUNRISE OVER KHANCHENDZONGA RANGE On the way back to our hotel, we stopped at another monastery, and saw a huge Buddha, certainly the largest we have seen, and probably 15 to 18 feet tall. We returned to re-start the day with showers and a shave, before breakfast. TALL AND MIGHTY BUDDHA We were on our way again at 9am, and initially headed to The Tibetan Refugee Self-help Centre. After the Chinese invasion thousands of Tibetan refugees settled in Darjeeling. The rehabilitation centre was set up in 1959 to help them to continue to practice their skills and sell their produce. It was a fantastic experience to watch skills, which were once practiced at home but have now been lost, being put to good use. There was painting, sewing and wood carving. But most impressive was the whole process of using the wool of their animals. We saw the treated and dried wool being carded and then spun, before being rolled into balls. This was followed by it being dyed with a variety of natural colours using local herbs, roots and vegetables, before it was then woven on the loom, or made into carpets using carefully prepared pattern charts. WOOL SORTER CARDING WOOL SPINNING WOOL WEAVING WOOL The next visit was to the Himalayan Mountain Institute. To get to it we had to pass through the zoo. I am not a great fan of zoos as I hate to see wild animals confined to small enclosures. I accept that it is sometimes necessary, particularly for endangered species. Among the animals in the zoo, many of which are endangered, were a snow leopard and clouded leopards, neither of which we had, of course, seen before. It can only be hoped that their captivity helps to maintain the viability of their species, as to be honest none of them looked content, pacing around their enclosures and appearing stressed. The Himalayan Mountain Institute was very interesting, and it was fascinating to see some of the original tents, clothes, boots, crampons, rucksacks and tents used by the original explorers in the Himalayas. They were tough guys. We had a brief stop back at the hotel, before our final trip out in Darjeeling. We had decided that we could not visit Darjeeling without going on the Toy Train, or the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway. This is steam railway running on a 0.6 metre gauge track. The train now only covers the 40 minute journey from Darjeeling ascending 305 metres to Ghoom, at 2438 metres. But what a journey. The train, pulled by steam engines 150 years old, jerked and jarred its way uphill, while bellowing out thick clouds of the most acrid smelling black smoke. It is almost impossible to see through the Perspex roof of the carriages because of the thick layers of dense black soot, and the cables running around Darjeeling, where they pass over the station have thick deposits of black particles clinging to them. It was impossible to travel with the windows open, and as we got out at the mid way point, particles of soot were falling on top of us. As the train ascends the hill at times it goes so close to houses that it would be possible to reach out and exchange high 5s with the residents as they sit in their doorways, and so close to shops that it would be possible to lean out and practice a little shop lifting. All these people are subjected to the foul polluting smoke as the train wends its way uphill, and it was amusing to watch pedestrians, bikers and car passengers alike, put their hands to their mouths and flick soot from their head, faces and clothes as we passed by. And it was frightening also to notice that we passed stall with chickens and fish on display, which by the time we had passed were also covered in black soot. We wouldn't have bought from these stalls before, as the chickens were on open display before being weighed on scale which looked as though they probably hadn't been washed since they had been bought. I honestly think we did more damage to the environment in our 40 minute journey, than we will do by flying from Manchester to India and back. 150 YEAR OLD STEAM ENGINE ENGINE STOKER POLLUTING THE ENVIRONMENT We returned to our total, said goodbye to Abishek and Vinod, with whom we had shared 6 most enjoyable, varied and interesting days, and then settled down for yet another afternoon tea, served by a maid in her black and white uniform (think we could get used to this). We are now waiting for a knock on the door, and will have an open fire lit, before showering and bathing with a G&T and a whiskey (delivered by room service), and get ourselves prepared to face another 5 course dinner. Tomorrow is a lie-in, as we don't leave until 10am, heading to Glenburn Tea Estate for two nights of rest and relaxation.

Monasteries, Monks and Markets

19 APRIL 2013 Had an interesting day today in and around Gangtok. Set off after breakfast to Rumtek Monastery. It was a slower journey there than expected because today is a holy day in Buddhism and Hinduism, and there was a steady stream of traffic trying to get up a narrow road, wi some vehicles trying to travel down in the opposite direction. At the entrance gate we had to hand in our passports, before walking past a series of curio shops, fluttering prayer flags and numerous prayer wheels, to reach the monastery. A superficial search ensued, before we were able to go in. Rumtek is the main monastery for one of the schools of Buddhism and was established in this area when they fled Tibet after the Chinese invasion. Unlike the ancient and relatively plainly styled buildings we had seen in Delhi, Jaipur and Agra, the monastery was multi-coloured and bright, and obviously a much newer structure, having been built in the 1960s. THE COLOURFUL MONASTERY We were able to go inside, although again had to take our shoes off, and unfortunately were not able to take photographs inside. The relics of the 16th Gywala Karmapa, who died in 1981, are housed in a golden reliquary. The monks were unfortunately extremely reluctant to be photographed, and so I was left only with some distant, quickly grabbed shots. THE VIEW OF A MONK We also visited a nearby Stupa, which again houses various documents and important relics. We failed to really understand what Buddhism is all about, and the same applied to,this building, although it appears to be intended to provide protection for the local population. Children are sent by their parents, who select one of their sons, at the age of 5. They are then educated at the monastery, although much of the education appears to be directly related to Buddhism, with very little in the way of a general education. With this as their background, they are expected at the age of 17, to make their final decision, and if they choose to follow the life of a monk, they are then permanently live a monastic life. They could, or would, only leave under very exceptional circumstances, such as the need to care for parents. Leaving under any other circumstances would be considered to bring dishonour on their family. We also visited the Institute of Tibetology, which was not particularly interesting, and in the afternoon visited another, smaller monastery, Enchery Monastery, which is an older building, constructed in the early 1900s, and is more specifically linked to the town of Gangtok. After this we then visited the local shopping area. At first this was disappointing as we wherein the crowded Mahatma Gandhi Marg, which is relatively new, although not modern by Western standards. We then moved on to the colourful bazaars below it, which was much more interesting. However, the real interest came when we went into the local market, a massive 4 storey building, with the first two floors devoted to fruit and vegetables, with clothing, furniture, and carpets above. The range of fruit and vegetables was stunning, with many that we had neither seen, nor indeed heard of before. They were displayed in a colourful manner, and were a dream to photograph. It was also incredibly refreshing to have local people who were happy to have a photograph taken without demanding money as in the first part of our holiday in Rajasthan. In fact they were asking for a photograph to betaken, posing happily and engaging and smiling, and enjoying looking at the back of the camera to see the finished product, laughing and joking with their friends and with me. VEGETABLE SELLER href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEoTRkDeoyLIEEX9yhm-TKC46vW8DrziF6O56uzhnQwg5TazVemZXgz1jGNK1hFvffhLauV6vUIgkS2eSPH6VBpia9pHZBqCLKKOhh8j_GDaP15f7JfTaIvcJviVsU6uhUH9EgzV6pjgkf/s1600/_DSC8867.jpg" imageanchor="1" > INDIAN B&Q Not only where the market stall holders happy for photos to be taken, but also others walking around the market, and wherever we walked people would acknowledge us and smile at us in a very friendly manner. After a walk back to the hotel, we were able to sit outside and enjoy "afternoon tea", and later dinner. We actually had a good meal, a complete contrast to last night, when we were served pork which was inedible. As we started to eat the skies opened, and we were treated to torrential rain and an impressive thunderstorm. Hopefully it will mean once again that we have good weather tomorrow, a thought that I took with me as I settled down for an early night with the alarm set for 4am, with the plan being to visit Tashi viewpoint and hopefully a good sun rise over Khangchendzonga range, Khanchendzonga being the third highest mountain in the world at 8586 metres. 20 APRIL 2013 Well, that was a waste of time. Got up just before 4am and was leaving hotel by 4.15, but it was very cloudy and as it became slightly lighter, it was clear that there was not going to be a significant sun rise. That's how it turned out to be when I was set up at Tashi viewpoint, as there were heavy clouds and mist rolling down into the valley. Headed back to hotel for about 6am and discovered that even if I had stayed in bed that I wouldn't have had much more sleep. Cherith was disturbed at 4.30 by a hammering on the front door of the hotel, and a blaring of a car horn. Then she was further disturbed at 5.40. We had been woken early the previous morning, and it sounded as though there were a gang of school boys playing football outside our bedroom window. When we got up and looked out of the window, we discovered that there was a large football stadium on the other side of the 20yard wide strip of lawn outside our window. It was a beautiful stadium with lovely mountain scenery in the background, but very noisy and about 150 children and adults were training. OUR EARLY MORNING ALARM CALL This morning the first noise was a bugle call at 5.40, followed by a practice session with a PA system, and then a full blown training, fitness, aerobic session which continued until just after 7am, accompanied by the instructor on the PA system, and lots of military style manoeuvres and shouting by a group of almost 200 people taking part. We will certainly be advising that this is a hotel that should be taken off the list. Left the hotel at 9am to head, initially in rainy weather, out of Sikkim with further bureaucracy and paper work, and on to Kalimpong, where the sun was trying to shine. Kalimpong used to be the resting place for traders coming out of China on the Silk Road, to trade their silk with the Maharajas in India. Although still a typical Indian town, with dust, rubble, dirt, noise and chaos, it did again appear to have slightly more substantial buildings. We got out of the vehicle and wandered through the town, and eventually into the outdoor market, held every Saturday. Like the indoor market we went round yesterday, it was a fantastic experience and a real assault on all of our senses - well at least sight, smell, touch and sound, although we didn't actually taste anything. There were vegetables and fruits in huge quantities, with many we didn't recognise, although Abishek kept us well informed. There were spices, lentils and beans, nuts and the occasional chicken in a basket awaiting its fate. It was great to watch and photograph the traders weighing out their wares on old fashioned balance scales, and men and women carrying huge loads, which were carried supported by a piece of material around their forehead and balanced on their backs. SELLING VEGETABLES - APPROVED BY WEIGHTS AND MEASURES? CHOOSE YOUR CHICKEN DINNER FOR TONIGHT NEPALESE STYLE RING PIERCINGS COLOURFUL SPICES MARKET PORTER About 2pm we headed to our hotel, Orchid Retreat, a little way outside of the town. Although basic, as is likely to be the case for all hotels in this area, it is comfortable and clean. We had a few sandwiches for lunch, before a wander around their lovely natural and rambling gardens, trying to avoid standing on a variety of species of orchids which were growing wild on the paths, and at the same time observing some of the many variety of birds, many of which we had never seen before. We spent the rest of the afternoon recovering from an early start, reading our books, observing another spectacular thunderstorm, and then again enjoying a well cooked and spiced Indian meal. 21 APRIL 2013 A lazy day today. Woken early, but this time by bird song and the occasional dog barking. After a leisurely breakfast, we set off at 10am to visit another monastery and this time I was allowed to take photographs of the very colourful and ornate interior. A FOLLOWER OF BUDDHISM We then visited two nurseries, the second of which contained a fantastic collection of flowering cacti, of all shapes and sizes. A final visit to another monastery, again with interior photographs, before returning to our hotel for a lazy afternoon, reading, bird watching, dozing and then watching the torrential rain. The weather is unseasonably wet, and as the day drew on, the rain got heavier. It was fantastic to watch the dark, threatening clouds moving across the sky and mingling with the mist raising from the valley. Our views across to Kalimpong were great, and then completely disappeared as the rain closed in. Another good meal, with very different cuisine to the earlier part of our trip. As with many other aspects of the area there is a strong influence from nearby Tibet, Nepal and China. An early night and ready to move on to Darjeeling tomorrow, and presumably a few cups of tea.

On to Gangtok, rescheduled flight, and close to China

INDIA STAGE 3 We are now on our way to Gangtok, in Sikkim, the North East of India. The journey is spread over two days, but apart from one minor problem has so far gone well. Currently we have just got on the plane at Delhi airport. We left Junglemantra yesterday morning at just after 9am. We were not sorry to leave behind the early morning alarm calls, the bumpy roads and jarring drives, the ubiquitous dust and certainly not The Dictator! Nor were we said to say goodbye to the other guests at Junglemantra, for the simple reason that during our 6 days we had been the only ones there, being royally looked after by the chef, two young lads who acted as waiters and cleaners, and another member of staff. We were sad to say goodbye to Shailin and his father, Vallabh. (Unfortunately Rhea, Shailin's wife was in Delhi during our stay.) We were also sad to leave behind the drives, the beauty of sitting quietly in the vehicles listening for alarm calls, while soaking up the smells, sights and sounds of the jungle. We will miss the colourful birds, the abundant deer, the crazy and entertaining monkeys, and above all our primary target , the tiger. We shared some magical moments with this lovely cat. Sadly, this is a threatened species, with very small numbers. We hope that tigers are still around and increasing in numbers so that one day our grandchild, Charlie, and his generation and future generations can share the same wonderful experience. Our journey to Jabalpur, was along the initial bumpy tracks, eventually joining a good road, although periodically this deteriorated as we passed through the crowded, noisy, colourful and congested villages. Shortly before arriving at the airport, our driver left the main road, and we were beginning to think we were about to be hijacked, but it turned out to be a short cut, avoiding Jabalpur. Odd to turn up at an airport, driving along a dirt track. The airport was extremely quiet when we arrived. In fact, apart from the guard on duty outside the entrance door, and a handful of staff, there was nobody else in sight. They seemed surprised to see anyone, and asked what time flight we were booked on. We advised it was the 14.45, and then discovered it had been rescheduled to 18.30. It was at that time 1pm, so we had 5 1/2 hours to wait. It actually went quickly, reading, sorting out photos and just people watching,as inside the airport were a lot of staff who appeared to spend their time wandering around but not actually doing a lot. There were no facilities apart from a snack bar selling crisps, nuts and chocolates, as well as a few drinks. However, eventually, on time (rescheduled time that is), we were on our way to Delhi. On the flight an English lady was sitting across the aisle. She asked about our itinerary and when we explained we were travelling in India for nearly 4 weeks, she announced in a loud voice on a plane full of local Indian people that she thought we were brave to spend four weeks in India. Back to The Claridges, where once again we had one of the best Indian meals we have eaten. Then this morning back into the traffic and headed to Indhira Gandhi Airport. As we approached a flyover with 4 official lanes of traffic in each direction, a car was stationary in the outside lane. The driver was lighting his cigarette - I would like to think he had broken down and was just having a smoke while waiting, but not totally convinced that he didn't just want a smoke. And now, at the end of the day, we are in Gantok, the capital of Sikkim. 1 hour and 40 minutes flight, and as we walked into the terminal building we were met by a local rep with a porter. Our luggage soon arrived, and then as we exited the airport we were introduced to Abhishek our local guide and Vinod, our driver, who will both be with us for the next 6 days as we visit Gantok, Kalimpong and Darjeeling. A further 5 hours in the car and we arrived at our hotel, Nor-Khill. We have moved to a different part of India, and there are some very obvious differences. We noticed the first one before we even landed, as we viewed Gantok and its environs from the air. The landscape and the vegetation are very different. Every where is very green, and the whole area is mountainous. We soon realised that the green fields were, in fact, tea plantations. Sikkim was originally known as Sukkim, which means Land of Rice, and everywhere there are terraced fields, which as soon as the monsoons arrive will be planted with rice. This change from dry and barren land is directly related to the second change that we have noticed. The weather has changed dramatically. We are now at approximately 1800 metres, and the temperature has dropped significantly. From 46C a few days ago, it is now probably in the low 20s. As we got coser to Gangtok, it started to rain, and as we got out of the car, we needed an umberella to cover the few steps into our hotel. In fact we arrived as a significant thunderstorm started. The third change is that the area appears overall to be more affluent. Of course, there is still a huge amount of poverty, and there is no relationship between what we are seeing and the developed world that we experience at home. People still live in very poor conditions and cheek by jowl, there are still dirty and dusty shops and houses, built with primitive materials and in precarious positions. But there is very little of the litter that we have seen in large quantities in other parts of India. The buildings are, generally speaking, more substantial and the are fewer primitive little stalls along the sides of the road, and some of the shops are modern multi-national stores. In part this may be because Sikkim is treated as a special area by the Indian government. Sikkim was an independent monarchy until Indira Gandhi invaded overnight in order to provide India with a buffer zone with its boundary with China. Now it is given preferential tax treatments, and its roads are paid for by the Indian Government and not by Sikkim. The fourth change that we have noticed, is that as we get closer to China andTibet, the people look different. There is more of an Oriental appearance, and they are much shorter in stature. One thing that has not changed is the love of bureaucracy and paper. On entering Sikkim we had to obtain an Inner Line Permit. We went into a small "office", bare except for a table and a few chairs and were met by a bored, underworked official. He proceeded to complete a form using the details in our passports, entered laboriously, by hand, our details into a large ledger, which must have been in use for years, took our passport photos and copies of our visa and passport, and then issued our permit. While our guide then returned to the Sikkim entry checkpoint to have our passports stamped, we went into a restaurant for a cup of tea and coffee. The bill was 40 rupees (50p), but the waiter still used a calculator to work out how much we owed! One change that is only partial is the driving and the roads. At first as we left the airport, there appeared to be less use of the horn. This is true, but only because in Delhi all drivers seem to us their horns all the time. There is still a lot more use of the horn than we would hear at home. The driving also appears to be less reckless - even our driver admit he would not drive in Delhi. Nevertheless, driving is still crazy, with cars suddenly and with no warning performing a "U" turn immediately in front of us on the roads, and some crazy overtaking of multiple vehicles even when approaching, and in fact while actually going around blind corners. The roads in part are reasonable, but large sections are tracks, both bumpy and dusty. In sections the road is being widened, and traffic is brought to a standstill. Even in large queues of traffic vehicles try to move forward and then end up blocking the road and preventing cars, lorries and buses trying to pass in the opposite direction. Perhaps all this explains why the 70 mile journey from Bagdogra airport to our hotel took over 5 hours. But at last we arrived at the Nor-Khill to be greeted by a welcoming scarf, a traditional greeting, being placed around our shoulders, and a glass of Cherry Brandy.

Tiger Safari - 6 days, 11 drives - but did we se tigers

We have had no Internet access while in Bandhavgarh, and so this blog entry will describe the whole of our 6 days and 11 safari drives. Apologies in advance for how long it is! 11 APRIL 2013. After lunch, we got ourselves organised with cameras, lenses, tripod, bean bag and binoculars, and headed to our vehicle. A typical safari open vehicle, with two rows of seats. I eventually opted for the back row, but still could not use my tripod properly, but eventually after another drive, we had the middle seat removed so that I could set up my tripod and still have quick access to a second camera for closer range shots. We arrived at the park, and having gone through the formalities, we started our first safari drive. We have travelled here in the hope of seeing tigers. We believe we have given ourselves the best opportunity. Bandhavgarh has the highest density of tigers in India, although still worryingly low. We have come when the weather is hot - high 30's plus, so that they are more likely to head to watering holes,and we are staying for 6 days. But we still accept that we may not see a tiger. If we do, we will be very happy. If, additionally, I can get a photo, that will be brilliant, but accept again that this may be a distant shot of a camouflaged, and hidden tiger. If I can get a good photo - well that will be beyond expectations. As we head off we are amazed at the number of monkeys that we see. Individuals, small family groups and larger groups. Adults and juveniles, and tiny baby monkeys. We also see 3 of the types of deer that exist here - Samba deer, Spotted deer and barking deer (the type we know in England as Muntjac). The barking of the deer, and the chattering alarm calls of the monkeys are one of the clues that there may be a tiger in the area. After a pleasant hour driving around, taking a few photos and starting to see some of the lovely birds, we are suddenly put on high alert. The deer and monkeys alert us that we may be close to a tiger. The driver, Shailin, who owns our lodge - Junglemantra, and the park guide who travels with us start to get excited, and all eyes are peeled. We reverse back a short distance and then Cherith informs all of us that just to the side and deeply hidden in the undergrowth, she has seen her first tiger. And then one by one we all see it. A head and two ears hidden in the undergrowth, but nevertheless a wild tiger. Our first aim has miraculously been achieved within the first hour. I take a photo, although it is of a head shielded by grass, but it may be my only chance. But shortly after this the tiger walks out, stretches and lies down on the road, just 30 to 40yards in front of us. The light is lovely, the tiger is relaxed, and my camera goes into overdrive. After a while we drive past the female tiger, who casually gets up and strolls back into the undergrowth before re- emerging to lie down again. Unbelievably we spend 2 hours with her, and what a privilege. I am able to photograph her relaxing, walking down the track towards us, and then heading to water and drinking. The first drive, and now we have also achieved aims 2 and,3, not only a record photo of a tiger, but also clear action shots of a tiger walking and drinking. We just have to hope it has not all been too easy, and that this is our first and last view and photos of a tiger. Only time will tell. 12 APRIL 2013. Two further drives today, but not a sign of any tigers after the superb viewing we had yesterday. Not that we didn't all try. A 4 hour drive in the morning and 3 hours in the afternoon. Very different type of safari to what we are used to; neither better nor worse, just different. For one thing all the lodges are situated outside the National Park, and so we needed to set off from the lodge at just after 5.30, in order to be ready to enter when it gets to 6am (opening time). Numbers of visitors each day are restricted. I am not sure if this is a good or bad idea, although there do appear to be quite a lot of vehicles whenever a tiger is seen. This appears to be more of a problem for those watching the tiger than for the tigers, who are very relaxed around the vehicles. However, there appears to be a view that tourism is having an adverse effect on the tiger population. This is unlikely to be correct, and evidence from other situations with threatened species suggests that properly regulated tourism helps to reduce poaching and encourage the re- emergence of once threatened species. We have pre- booked tickets for our safaris, and when we arrive at the gate with Shailin he has to produce the tickets and we have to show our passports to be checked against the ticket details. We are then given a guide who travels with us and a pre- determined route to follow. This could be frustrating if a tiger appears somewhere nearby but not actually on our route, although unlike in South Africa, we probably wouldn't know if a tiger was near, as there is no way of communicating between guides. Also we have to be out of the park by 10am after the morning drive and 6pm after the evening drive, so have to make a rapid return journey if we have had good viewing and are late, at speed, over incredibly bumpy surfaces. Although it could be frustrating, we just go along with the rules, and still have two good drives. Lots to see:- red- faced and black-faced monkeys with babies, deer, numerous birds including the beautiful Indian Roller and White-throated Kingfisher, a proudly displaying and grand male Indian Peacock and at the end of the drive a rare view of a Ruddy Mongoose, drinking at a patch of water. Tomorrow is another day, and it may bring us tigers, but if not there will be lots to see and enjoy. 13 APRIL 2013 Now well settled into lodge routine, and another day to go and search for tigers. The day begins with an early start, usually about 5am, and then a quick tea or coffee, before heading off in the jeep in order to be at the Park entrance for 6am. A 4 hour safari then follows, before returning to the lodge for breakfast. With food and chat finished, we head back to our room between 11am and 11.30am. We then have some time to download and start to sort photos, check bird list, write blog, recharge camera batteries, clean the rapidly accumulating dust from my cameras, read and rest or catch up on sleep. Lunch is then at about 2.15 before we repeat the morning routine, but this time leaving just after 3 for a 3.30 start at the park and a 3 hour safari. After returning at about 7pm, we head to our room for a shower, with a bottle of Kingfisher each and then eat about 8pm. The tastes and flavours of all the meals are first class. Bed then follows around 10 to 10.30; exhausted. The drives themselves cover a long distance over tracks which are at times very bumpy and bone shaking. Each drive probably covers 35 miles. As well as being on the constant look out for wildlife, our ears are tuned in to the sound of the forest, listening for birds, alarm calls or any other clue as to what may be around us. A constant battle is with the dust, which obviously is not ideal for cameras and lenses. The shower caps, which I regularly take with me when leaving hotels, come in very useful for this purpose, covering camera body and lens, but at the same time being quickly removable. (I obviously have no other use for them, certainly not for their intended purpose.) This morning we were actually up 30 minutes earlier, as we are heading for The Magdi Region of the Park, which is further away from Junglemantra. The drive this morning again failed to reveal any tigers, although there were paw imprints and alarm calls from monkeys and deer, so they are obviously in the region. The drive this afternoon was very different and certainly not what we expected. As we set off, the beautiful hot weather from this morning started to change, and was replaced by heavy cloudy skies, and the threat of an imminent storm. We had not been on the way for long when the wind whipped up, leaves started to be blown around, a few spots of rain fell, and the rumblings of thunder could be heard in the distance. We were offered the option of a cover over the vehicle, but initially declined as it would restrict viewing. However, as the rain started to become torrential, we quickly changed our mind, and what a good job. Although only lasting for 10 minutes or so, the rain lashed down and we would have been soaked through. The shower caps now were protecting my main camera and lens from the rain, while my other camera went back in the camera bag. My tripod also found an additional use at this stage. The top of the cover over the vehicle was very low, and we were sitting in a crouched position. The tripod was extended and the roof was raised so that we could sit upright. As the rain eased, the cover came off, but about 5pm the rain started again, the thunder increased and the lightening started to flash all around us. I guess it's not the safest option in the world to be travelling in a forest, holding onto a lightening conductor, in the form of a tripod, while a storm rages around. However, travelling at break neck speed over the rocky and bumpy surface, we eventually reached the exit of the park at 6pm, and as the rain had stopped again, we were pleased to have the cover removed, and enjoy much cooler fresh air. Although we had some excellent sightings of the various monkeys, deer and birds and also our first view of a jackal during the day, there were sadly no further views of our main target, the tiger. On our way back to the lodge, and by now very dark, we did stop for a while as alarm calls were very clear just off the road, but nothing further happened. We got back to Junglemantra and discovered that there had been a few spots of rain only during the course of the afternoon. Another day, 5 drives now complete and just the one tiger viewing, albeit an excellent one. Nearly halfway and we are wondering if we are going to be frustrated over the remaining 3 days, and 6 drives. 14 APRIL 2013 A lie in today, as we are heading to the Tala region, where we had our first 3 drives, and is closer, so did not need to get up until 5am! The camera bag today is packed with waterproof covers and we also have our kagouls. The weather appears to be very pleasant, and the rain seems to have cooled it down a little, although this may not be as good as it sounds, as we want it hot to make the tiger viewing more likely. We headed to a new, for us, area of the forest, which was really beautiful. The Sal trees and in many cases parasitic vines, making for interesting shapes and patterns, with roots, vines and branches all intertwined. In addition there is the beautiful, vibrant colour of the Flame of the Forest Tree, and there is a backdrop of rugged hills. In addition dotted around are small ponds and watering holes. The viewing is again excellent, with a few new birds to enjoy. The langur monkeys have been eating the Mahua fruit. As this is also picked by local people to make wine (they get 25 rupees for each kilo they pick!), it is not surprising that the monkeys are rushing around, jumping from tree to tree and play fighting. Monkeys are great fun to watch at the best of times, but drunk monkeys are even funnier. They have some of the most amazing expressions, and it is so easy to fall into the trap of humanising them and their behaviour. As we are watching the monkeys and deer, their behaviour suddenly alters, and alarm calls go out. There is obviously a tiger in the area. And then from very nearby we hear the sound of tigers fighting. It is likely that there is a kill in the vicinity and there is a fight for the food. But then the forest settles back down again, the monkeys start to move around and the deer recommence their grazing in a relaxed style. No sighting, but it is now hot, and hopefully any tiger(s) in the area will lie down in the shade, and rest, before starting to move around later as it starts to cool down. Hopefully also, we will be able to return to the same area this afternoon, although if not there are still potential sightings in other parts of Tala region. On the way out of the park, there is the opportunity to photograph a male spotted deer, with his antlers, a Crested Serpent Eagle, and a White-throated Kingfisher. We set off again at 3.30, more in hope than expectation. We were allocated the same route as this morning, and so immediately headed to the area where we had heard the tigers earlier in the day. We stayed for over an hour, photographing the deer and vultures which were circling around and landing in the area where we had assumed earlier that there was a kill. But no sign of a tiger, and there is a limit to how many deer photographs it is worth taking. Starting to feel pessimistic, and thinking that perhaps our luck ran out after the first drive. We had to start the journey back to complete our route, and be out by 6.30. After a while we speeded up and as we rounded a bend there were about 5 vehicles lined up and looking onto the grassland in front. It was obvious that they were not just watching the 5 Indian peacocks in front of where they were, as these are seen throughout the park. It was thought that a tiger was probably lying in dense undergrowth approximately 100 metres ahead. But did we see one? Unfortunately no. Bur fortunately we did see two! After a short wait a tiger emerged, walked a short way forward, and then lay down again. From the aspect of photography it was quite a long way off and the light was starting to fall. It would appear that he had lain down in some water, as through the binoculars or the camera lens, or in the case of the guide, the naked eye, it was possible to see water being sprayed as he flicked his tail. And so we felt it was unlikely he would find a need to get up and find something to drink. Bit within a few minutes, a second tiger cub (they were about 16 months) appeared from the opposite direction, and after a brief frolick, they went and lay down again. But the show was not over, for again after only a few minutes, one of the tigers reemerged and ran across to an area of water. Sadly the light was too low for a good shutter speed, and so I doubt if I will have any real action shots. Also, sadly, we had to leave them, because the park has strict rules, and if we were not out in time, there was the potential for fines or a banning for the lodge. It seems ridiculous that when people have travelled a long way in order to see tigers, that such strict and inflexible rules apply. But nothing that could be done. And so we headed back to the lodge, tired and almost wet as the weather was changing, but very happy. And just one hour before I had decided that our luck was out and our trip was going to be confined to one tiger and one sighting. Who knows what else is in store. PS Was downloading photos while writing the above, and was pleasantly surprised that despite the conditions, and the need to push my camera to its limits, that I have got some reasonable tiger photos. 15 APRIL 2013 After the usual start to the day, we set off into the Park, and soon picked up alarm calls. We could see a large herd of spotted deer, which had obviously been unsettled, and there were reports that this was due to a female tiger, although we did not see it ourselves. Sat near the water, and while waiting, saw a peacock displaying, 3 different types of storks giving nice reflection shots, and a Stork-billed Kingfisher (aptly named) fishing. Continued on our way and deviated to Center Park ( not Centre Parcs), where you would certainly not want to linger. It as, as the name implies, approximately in the middle of the Park, and is the only place where it is allowed to get out of the vehicle. There are "toilets" available, with a most unpleasant odour, and Cherith would rather have found a tree, but that is not permitted. We were considering having a coffee and biscuit, when we heard that a tiger had been sighted. We abandoned the coffee break to pursue our top priority, and headed towards the area. It took about 15 minutes, and when we arrived, there were already 4 other vehicles there. Three tigers were in the long grass in the distance, two of which we did not see as they were heading to shade as we got there. The other stayed out in the open, giving us a good view as it relaxed, yawned and groomed its leg. It then also decided it was too hot, and sauntered into the bush. Four minutes from start to finish, but an excellent sighting, and a good job we hadn't stopped for coffee. Unfortunately the sun was high in the sky and harsh for photographs (is a photographer ever happy with the light) but no complaints. The refreshment stop came shortly after but as the Dictator, (oops - I mean Director), was in the Park this had to be discrete. We then slowly sauntered back to the exit, stoping to watch Langur monkeys feeding in a stretch of water, and seeing a few new birds. Time for breakfast, rest and sleep before lunch at 2.15, and with a spot of luck, a return to the same area, and possibly three consecutive drives when we see tigers. Three out of three! Yes, another sighting, and this time everything came together for an excellent view and excellent photo opportunities. We headed back, in a temperature of 43C to the same area where the tigers had been seen this morning. It is obvious that if the tiger has decided to lie down because it is so hot, that it is going to stay in the shade until it cools down. It took us about an hour of driving before we got there, and there were already 4 vehicles in situ. They were on the same route, but we had to travel the opposite direction. Crazy, but not only is everyone given a route, but also told which way to go round it, so that if you want to head to a potential tiger site just 2 miles from the start of the route, but you are scheduled to go the other way, you may have to drive 20 or more miles before reaching your intended destination. Not good for viewing, pollution, road damage etc. The advantage for us, however, was that later in the afternoon, when it was cooler and the tigers were likely to come out, the vehicles travelling in the opposite direction would have to leave to complete their route on time. Two tigers had been seen in the undergrowth. Shortly after arriving there was an alarm call a little way back. We headed back to a small watering hole, but no joy. By the time we had returned other vehicles had arrived and I felt that our vantage point was not going to be ideal for photographs. In the distance, and very well camouflaged in the undergrowth we could see a tiger tail flicking and the head of a second tiger. We had to wait for quite a while and then one of the tiger cubs (but at 16 - 18 months, still a big cat), got to its feet and started to move. Alarm calls rang around the forest and monkeys grabbed their babies, and along with the deer started to run. There was a loud commotion, and in the distance, perhaps 150 yards away, Cherith saw a tiger make a massive leap at a tree, and I was able to see the branches swaying. The guide felt that the tiger had grabbed a monkey out of the tree. The tiger disappeared and then reappeared a short distance away. Managed to take some photos, which were in good light, but distant. The Park Director then pulled up next to our vehicle, and the guide made our driver move back a few feet so that he could get his photos. We were all very pleased as this happened that the tiger moved behind a bush, and so we did not miss anything, and the Dictator did not get any photographs. After a further short wait the tiger headed to the spot where we had seen it yesterday afternoon and lay down in water to cool off, before again getting up and walking for a few strides, allowing some good photo chances. We were one of the last vehicles to move away, and as we neared the water hole we had checked earlier we found a tiger drinking, although unfortunately with its back to us. Two other vehicles, one of which contained the Director's party returned, but by the time they got back the tiger had stopped drinking, walked directly in front of us, looked us straight in the eye and then continued walking into a less clear position. The Director told us to move, as there is again a foolish rule that you are only suppose to view if you are parked on the same side of the road as where the viewing is located. Although we were annoyed at the time, we realised that actually we had just had the best viewing in good light, and that we had missed nothing by moving on. Back to Junglemantra for a lovely meal, a beer and then time to get some sleep before our final day here. 16 APRIL 2013 Our final day, and this morning we have made it 4 viewings in 4 drives. On a different route today, but as we drove and after about 1 hour, a male tiger paw marks were found. A number of vehicles arrived, including our friend the Director! We got some good views of the main male tiger, who rules the forest, and when we saw him it was obvious why he was number one. A big majestic cat. The sighting was not altogether comfortable, however. The Dictator was using two elephants to locate the tiger, and then try to move him into a viewing position for him and his cronies. Not a significant problem if done sensitively, but we all felt that it was continued for too long and was starting to cause this beautiful example of a threatened species unnecessary distress; and from someone who should have known better. What was worse it was purely for his pleasure, as he instructed our driver and some others not to turn their vehicles round and follow the tiger, and this could only have been to,make sure his view was not limited. However, once again, we did well out of his behaviour because the tiger actually turned round, walked through the undergrowth in front of us, made eye contact for a few more photos, and then crossed the track in font of us, and was so close that all I could get in my viewfinder was his head and a small part of his shoulder. A gentle return with a satisfied smile on our faces, breakfast, photo processing, camera cleaning, updating blog and in another 10 minutes it will be time for lunch, our last drive, and with a bit of luck 5 viewings in 5 consecutive drives. But if it is not to be we will not complain as we have had some excellent sightings of a lovely cat. As we set off for our final drive, it is 37.6C in the shade and 46.8 in the sun. But who cares about heat when there are tigers to see and photograph. And yes, that is exactly what happened. Everything fell into place for a perfect finale. After a drive, during which we found tiger paw marks, but did not find a tiger, we reached the previous area for our main sightings. There were a few other vehicles already present, and after a short while Cherith again picked up the unmistakeable signs of a flicking tail and then a head. An alarm call sent us back up the road to a water hole, but with no joy. While waiting at the original site we again heard a call, and headed back up the road. The female tiger cub was lying on the track, being observed by 4 or 5 vehicles. We managed to find a vantage point, and in beautiful light had just 30 seconds or so before she got up, stretched and casually walked down the road, and right in front of our vehicles. (And some people think tigers and other big cats are stressed by safari drives and game viewing.) The vehicles followed from the track, and again we managed to find a good viewpoint for our final sight of a tiger. Some distance away, but in beautiful light, strolling through the jungle, before lying down again to rest, and our final view of a tiger in the wild. We returned to Junglemantra, satisfied that we had more than achieved what we had come here for. And the final viewing was superb - excellent light, no technical problems, really close views, and some more distant views of the tiger in its environment, a very relaxed cat, and even better no sign of the Dictator. Part 2 of our stay in India is drawing to a close, and tomorrow we return to Delhi for the night before heading to the North-East of the country for what will be a totally different experience.

Overnight with India Rail - or why I will never moan about British Rail

10APRIL 2013 I will never again be critical of British Rail, after a 12 1/2 hour planned journey which was 2 hours late. Before the journey we had a wander around Agra Fort. This was the first monument we had visited without a guide, and it was quite a pleasure just to wander around at our own pace without being bombarded with numerous facts, most of which we would have forgotten before leaving the fort. After 6 days of visiting palaces, forts, mausoleums and other sites, we have now had enough of this stage of the journey and are really looking forward to the next stage in a rural situation. We had a lazy, but very hot, wander around some of the Agra streets, taking photos, chatting to a few people, and being bombarded by noise, traffic and rickshaw drivers hassling us to take a ride! We left the hotel at 6.30 to head to the railway station, which was only 10-15 minutes away. It was staring to get dark, but nobody was bothering with headlights. Have also realised that Indian cars are built with a redundant item. A huge amount of money could be saved if no cars were fitted with indicators, which are never used. When we arrived at the station we were greeted by the usual noise and chaos, and the site of scores and scores of rickshaws, presumably waiting for business. We were accompanied by a representative of the agents of the company who helped us with our travel plans. He organised a porter, and we later were told that he had been at the station since 7am and we were the first people that he had worked for. He does not get any wage, and so after 12 hours he went home with the tip that we had been advised was the correct amount to give him, namely 100 rupees, about £1.25. As we entered the station, it made the outside look and feel like a silent church awaiting a funeral. There were people everywhere, lying, sitting, squatting, talking, shouting, running, eating, drinking. Two trains arrived before ours, and it was fascinating to watch. The trains were crowded not just to capacity, but overflowing. Most trains have about 18 carriages, and the standard ones are intended for 70 people, but actually normally carry about 90. Tickets have to be booked at least 2months in advance, and often earlier, or are not available. A number of late tickets are available but cost a lot more. Having said that the cost is incredibly cheap, with a basic ticket to Delhi from Agra -over 100 miles, costing just over £1. As the trains were leaving the station whole families, who had been busy saying goodbye to their relatives, would run across the platform, and, one by one jump onto the moving train. Even later, chai sellers, newspaper vendors, food sellers, would jump off the moving train, having continued to try to sell their wares as the train pulled out, and run along the platform, as the train discharged them at speed. We got onto our train, having had to search for our A1, air- conditioned, 2 tier carriage. There is no order to the carriages, and you just have to find where yours is situated. It might be thought that with that description of our carriage, it would be a bit like British Rail, 1st Class, or at least 2nd. Class. That would be correct, but British Rail in the 1950's! Our carriage was divided into 8 separate, open sections, each for 6 passengers. There was a long corridor running down the carriage and4 passengers were on one side of the corridor, and the other two on the other side, running parallel with the length of the train. These latter were our two seats and beds. Our cases had to go under the lower tier bed / seat, and as there was only space for 2 of them, the other one went on the other side of the corridor where there was space under one of the other passengers beds. My two camera cases joined us on our seat / bed. To say the train was not very clean was an understatement. I won't describe the toilet / hole in the floor, but we tried to avoid it as much as is possible in a 14 hour journey, and declined to use it for hand washing, relying instead on the hand sanitizer that we had with us. The thought of using the toilet and wash basin to clean our teeth made us feel sick! After a while into the journey, the ticket collector arrived. He was carrying reams of official paper, and requested our ticket. He scrutinised this A4 sheet of paper, with names, passport numbers and a host of other details. He then scrutinised his paperwork, before re-examining our ticket. He then told us we owed some money! We explained that our tickets had been paid for in advance, and that is where the problem lay. It appears that after we had bought our tickets, parliament set the railway budget, and fares went up, and were applied retrospectively. So we had no choice but to pay the excess. However, it did not break the bank, as we owed 45 rupees, or about 60p! We received a hand written receipt, and before this was passed across to us, he removed his piece of carbon paper, and placed it below the next ticket, ready for another unwitting customer. We then had some of the food that our hotel had provided for us as a packed dinner, and then about 10pm decided to try to get some sleep. I had the top tier, and Cherith the bottom one, and we each had one camera bag for company. As the length of the bed was less than 6 feet, this did not make for a good night. We pulled across the badly hung, fraying, and incompletely fitting curtains, and tried to sleep. Try was the operative word, because we had to cope with combined noise of the other 47 people in our carriage, who were up and down and moving around, with lights going on and off. From time to time an armed guard would walk down the corridor, and at stations along the line passengers would leave and new ones would join, thinking nothing of pulling back curtains as they walked up and down the corridor, to check who was behind the curtains. The "gentleman" or should I say large and noisy guy opposite us was perhaps the worst of the lot. His wife deserves a medal, although based on her constant sniffing and snorting, perhaps he does as well. I have over the years shared rooms with other guys as I have travelled and holidayed. Many of them have spent large parts of the night producing sounds from different body orifices, but this guy made them all look like rank amateurs. At just before 6am I gave up and popped "downstairs" to discover that Cherith had had a worse night than mine. She also gave me the bad news that as far as she could tell we were running late. It was difficult to be certain where we were as some of the stations did not have clear signs. Let me explain that we were travelling on the Mahakosal EXPRESS. This express train takes over 12 scheduled hours to travel 683 km - or about 420 miles, which is about 35 miles per hour. It involves 19 planned stops, although it also appeared to stop at other stations not on our itinerary. And when we eventually worked out exactly where we had got to, we realised that we were running 2 hours late. Anyway we made it eventually, and what an experience. Probably one that we won't rush to repeat. We then had just over 2 hours by car, initially along the normal chaotic town and village roads and then over bone shaking roads as we headed to Bandhavgarh National Park. We eventually arrived at Junglemantra, our home for the next 6 days, to be greeted by Shailin, the owner. We then realised that our efforts had been worthwhile. A lovely lodge, quiet and secluded. Done out in a rustic style, with bamboo walls to our large airy room, with air conditioning and two fans Lunch was planned for 2pm, and our first drive was to start at 3pm. But would we see tigers?